Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) ExeElvis and Nixon

A bizarre intersection of American pop culture and politics is recounted in Elvis and Nixon, which stars Michael Shannon as the King of Rock 'n' Roll and Kevin Spacey as Tricky Dick.

It's the story of a famous photograph taken in the Oval Office in 1970, in which the President shakes hands with the King, and Presley asked to be sworn in as a special undercover agent of the Bureau of Narcotics and Dangerous Drugs, and to be given a badge.

Other stars in the indie comedy-drama include the ever-reliable Colin Hanks, plus Alex Pettyfer, Johnny Knoxville, Evan Peters, Tracy Letts and Tate Donovan.

Critical reception is mostly favorable.

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Also opening

Independence Day: Resurgence – Twenty years after the first Independence Day, director Roland Emmerich gets most of the band back together for another epic of special-effects-driven global destruction. Jeff Goldblum, Bill Pullman, Judd Hirsch and Brent Spiner are among the returnees with Will Smith among the notables not appearing. This is imagined as a reboot of the ID franchise and could be the first of a trilogy. However, early critical reception is not so good so far.

A Hologram for the King – Colin Hanks' dad is a down-and-out businessman who takes a gamble on landing a big deal with Saudi Arabia's monarch, who envisages a massive economic development rising up from the nothingness of the desert. The stressed-out exec has a panic attack, and is nursed back to health by a Saudi woman (Sarita Choudhury from Homeland), and the two hit it off in a taboo star-crossed romance. The story is based on a novel by Dave Eggers, who also wrote the screenplay. Tom Tykwer (Run Lola Run, Cloud Atlas) directs. Critical reception is mixed.

Queen of the Desert – Nicole Kidman portrays Gertrude Bell in this historical drama, chronicling the achievements of the intrepid British explorer, diplomat and writer in the Middle East in the late 1800s and early 1900s. James Franco, Damian Lewis and Jenny Agutter are among the other stars, along with Robert Pattinson, who plays Colonel T.E. Lawrence. It's the first feature in six years from the veteran writer-director Werner Herzog. Sadly, critical reception is generally negative.

Raman Ragav 2.0 – Nawazuddin Siddiqui portrays a serial killer who preyed on citizens in 1960s Mumbai, using a steel rod to smash victims' heads to bits. Vicky Kaushal also stars. It's in Hindi with English and Thai subtitles at Major Cineplex Sukhumvit, Rama III and Pattaya. Opens Friday.

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Also showing

The European Union Film Festival is under way at CentralWorld. I covered the offerings in a special post last week. The opening film, the terrific Tale of Tales, unfortunately won't be repeated during the festival, but it has been picked up by the small Thai distributor Mono Film, and hopefully it will soon get a decent general release. There are also screenings at the usual places I cover here, the Friese-Greene Club and Alliance Francaise. But I'm not going into details about those because ...

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Take note

I am cutting things short this week in order to say farewell.

It's been my pleasure to bring you news of new movie releases and film events in Bangkok these past several years, but now it is time for me to shift my focus to other matters besides what's playing in Bangkok cinemas.

I leave you with an urging to get out and watch films in the cinema, and please support Bangkok's handful of independent theaters – House and Lido and especially the Scala.















Thanks for reading.cutive Chef Nick Dixon and the Lincoln Tavern & Restaurant team welcome colder weather with new seasonal menu items and the return of Thursday Night Ramen.

Fall menu highlights include:
WEEKDAY BRUNCH (Monday – Thursday, 10am-3pm)
--Pumpkin Pancakes with graham cracker crumble, cream cheese frosting, plump golden raisins, bourbon maple syrup
--Pastrami Hash with house smoked brisket, piquillo peppers, smashed Yukon potatoes, sautéed leeks, poached eggs, whole grain mustard hollandaise
--Smoked Salmon Benedict ciabatta bread, smashed avocado, house smoked pastrami salmon, lemon hollandaise, lemon dressed greens
--Pork Carnitas Burrito crispy smoked pork, salsa verde, tater tots, runny egg
DINNER
--French Onion Soup Meatballs pork and beef meatballs, Gruyere cheese, garlic croutons, French onion soup
--Salmon Quinoa Bowl with wood-fired Faroe Island Salmon, quinoa, fresh sage, roasted winter squash, red grapes, Vermont goat cheese, apple maple vinaigrette
--Cast Iron Seared Pork Chop sage and buttermilk brined Berkshire pork chop, seared Brussels sprouts, shallot confit, roasted baby carrots, apple bourbon jam, hard cider reduction.
--Kung Pao Brussels Sprouts with Szechuan peppercorns, shishito peppers, honey roasted peanuts, sweet chili sauce
--Shaved Apple Salad mixed greens, plump golden raisins, shaved Honeycrisp apples, Vermont goat cheese, honey mustard dressing
--Butternut Squash Pizza fontina, bacon, caramelized onions, pecorino Romano, rosemary oil
WEEKEND BRUNCH (Saturday & Sunday, 9am-3pm)
--Dark Chocolate Waffle peanut butter drizzle, hot fudge sauce, maple whipped cream, honey roasted peanuts
--Hot Smoked Pastrami Sandwich Gruyere cheese, sauerkraut, spicy mustard, griddled Iggy’s rye bread
--Thick Sliced French Toast cinnamon brioche, brown butter pastry cream, caramelized apples and cinnamon, Vermont maple pecan syrup, Applewood smoked bacon
--Apple Cinnamon Oatmeal old fashioned rolled oats, roasted honeycrisp apples, cinnamon, nutmeg, cream

The Lincoln team continues with Brunch Test Kitchen every Friday this fall, where you can find a rotating lineup of brunch items and boozy milkshakes available for one day only (Friday 10am – 2pm). Guests can also toast to fall with a variety of new fall cocktails from Beverage Manager Rob Macaffrey, including the Autumn Mule (vodka, apple cider, caramel, lime), Candy Apple (gin, apple liqueur, cranberries, ginger) and Maple Crisp (rum, maple, apple, lime).

Every Thursday, starting at 5pm, Ramen returns to the Lincoln menu, featuring Chef Dixon’s traditional Bacon Dashi broth, complete with rotating Asian-inspired snacks to accompany Lincoln’s signature Ramen ($15). Ramen is available on Thursday evenings only, now through February 2018.

2) Jack’s Coal Fired Pizza has opened its first location in Burlington with a menu of handcrafted pizzas, pastas and wings, brought to life within the restaurant’s coal fired and wood fired ovens, made in Italy. As the name suggests, the coal fired concept is carried throughout Jack’s, influencing everything from the cocktail program to the interior décor. Helmed by Executive Chef Steve Walsh, the all-new 6,000-square-foot eatery and bar is located in Burlington in the property formerly occupied by Papa Razzi.

Patrons can indulge in hand stretched 16” Coal Fired Pies, 12” Wood Fired Pies, and a selection of starters, pastas and green salads in addition to nearly 40 craft and local beers and an array of wine and specialty cocktails like the Coal Fired Peach Lemonade (Tito’s, white peach puree, charred lemonade, coal fired peaches), made using lemons and peaches singed in the coal fired oven. Menu choices crafted in the coal fired oven include the Coal Fired Wings (lemon herb-rubbed or buffalo), the Swine & Sprouts (tomato, roasted Brussels sprouts, pork belly, mozzarella, garlic, balsamic reduction), White Clam (béchamel sauce, mozzarella, garlic, oregano, bacon), and Picante (tomato, pepperoni, sausage, mozzarella, banana peppers).

Jack’s Wood Fired Pizzas are cooked using white oak wood, and include choices like the Margherita, Popeye (mozzarella, feta, spinach, roasted garlic, olives), and West Coast (mozzarella, fig jam, prosciutto, bleu cheese, peppadew, onion, arugula). Guests can end their Jack’s Coal Fired Pizza experience on a sweet note with the homemade Banaffee Pie (graham cracker, toffee, banana, and custard) or homemade Carrot Cake (walnuts, cream cheese frosting).

Jack’s Coal Fired Pizza is open from 11:00am – 1:00am daily. Their menu seems to be larger than the other coal fired pizza restaurants in the area. Plus, the addition of the wood fired oven is an intriguing extra.

3) On Wednesday, October 25, you can meet Jeffrey Roberts, author of both the Atlas of American Artisan Cheese and the newly released Salted & Cured, the history of charcuterie in America, at The Cheese Shop of Concord. You can meet Jeff at two different segments:

3:30pm–5:30pm: Chat with Jeff, purchase a signed copy of his books if you like, and enjoy some cheese & charcuterie nibbles paired with exquisite Spanish Cider, courtesy of Ciders of Spain. No reservation required – just stop on by!

6:30pm–8pm: A more formal and intimate presentation given by Jeffrey & The Cheese Shop of Concord’s Peter Lovis featuring a series of a half dozen cheese, charcuterie and Spanish cider pairings – hosted by The Cheese Shop & Ciders of Spain. Space is very limited - just 16 attendees. A $22.09 reservation fee is required, which will be given back to you as a $20 store credit to spend that evening on any of the featured items (the difference being the processing fee). Register soon as this rare event will quickly reach capacity. Buy your ticket here on Eventbrite.

The Pairing will include:
(A) Hubbardston Blue. Westfield Farm (Fanjul Natural)
Prosciutto Americano. La Quercia –
(B) Harbison. Jasper Hill Farm (Guzman Riestra)
Guanciale. Olli.
(C) Ashbrook. Spring Brook Farm (Angelon 1947)
Beef Bresaola. Larchmont –
(D1) West-West Blue. Parish Hill Creamery
(Sidra de Pera/Diamantes de Hielo)
(D2) Wild boar salami. Creminelli – (Riestra Natural)

4) On Wednesday, November 1, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, Post 390 is hosting a one-of-a-kind dinner, part of their "Farm to Post" series, featuring coffee and cacao beans from New England’s top local coffee roasters and chocolate makers. Executive Chef Nick Deutmeyer and the team at Post 390 welcome guests to satisfy their taste buds at a special four-course dinner featuring local coffee roasters and chocolatiers. This dinner includes a welcome reception and a four-course dinner with specially-paired beverages. Guests will be able to mingle with artisan roasters and chocolatiers who will answer questions throughout the dinner.

The menu is as follows:
RECEPTION
COCOA NIB LAVASH (Cashew butter, apple)
MINI BUTTERMILK BISCUITS (Brown sugar cured ham, whipped coffee butter)
BEEF & SCALLION MEATBALLS (Black coffee barbeque sauce)
FIRST COURSE
PUFFED BUCKWHEAT & COFFEE ROASTED ROOTS (Heirloom carrots, baby turnips & beets, sautéed kale, espresso vinaigrette)
SECOND COURSE
COFFEE & CROISSANT (Veal, caramelized onion & coffee bouillon, steamed milk, short rib & gruyere croissant)
ENTRÉE COURSE
GREEN COFFEE BEAN SMOKED DUCK BREAST (Cocoa parsnip puree, caramelized pear, brussels sprout leaves, coffee dusted confit & cherry croquette)
DESSERT
TAZA AFFOGATO SUNDAE (Coconut dulce de leche, cocoa nib brioche, espresso)

Cost: Tickets are $55 per person (inclusive of beer and appetizers).





















Space is limited and reservations are required.  To purchase tickets, visit https://www.eventbrite.com/e/farm-to-post-local-roasters-dinner-tickets-38656906849

Eating & Drinking In Chicago: One Dinner, Three Restaurants

On one evening in Chicago, we decided to do a bit of a restaurant crawl for dinner, visiting three different restaurants, all located within roughly a block or so of each other. Sure, we could have dined at just one place, but as we only had two evenings in Chicago, we wanted to experience as much as possible. The three restaurants were located in the Fulton Market neighborhood, which seems to be filled with many different restaurants, making it easy to walk from spot to spot.

We began our culinary journey at Leña Brava, a Rick Bayless restaurant which specializes in the cuisine of Baja California Norte. What initially intrigued me about this place was their drinks list, which includes over 30 Mexican wines from the Valle de Guadalupe, as well as a huge Mezcal list. In the photo above, you can see some of those Mezcal bottles displayed on one of the walls. I enjoyed a glass of the exquisite Pierde Almas Tobala Mezcal, and was also impressed with one of their cocktails, the delicious Negroni-ish, made with Siete Misterios Doba Yej mezcal, pineapple and cinnamon infused Aperol, and Carpano Antica.

Their Food Menu is essentially broken down into two sections, Ice & Fire, cold and hot dishes, and we chose to concentrate on the Ice section. The Ice sections is broken down into Oysters & Uni, Aguechiles, Ceviches, Cocteles, Laminados, and Salads. Their website states: "Our seafood is sourced from sustainable fisheries and environmentally responsible aquaculture enterprises." That is always an important element to see in a restaurant.

The Uni, Scallion pancakes, Oaxacan Pasilla ($27) is created with West Coast sea urchin, scallion-sesame corn masa pancakes, Oxacan papilla crema, pickled Klug Farm peaches (Szechuan pepper), tobiko, and baby corn. This was tasty, with a nice blend of textures and flavors, from the creamy uni to the slightly crunchy peaches.

From the Aguachiles section, we ordered the Opah Watermelon ($15), Sashimi-grade West Coast Opah in a spicy-watermelon-chiltepin "broth" with savory grilled watermelon, tomatoes, cucamelons, and garlic chive oil. This was the best of the three dishes we ordered, with silky opah, enhanced by the sweetness of the watermelon, with acidity from the tomatoes and a bit of tang from the garlic chive oil.

The Scallop Ceviche Al Pastor ($18) is made from Hudson Canyon diver scallops, a limey ceviche "broth" with flavors of tacos al pastor, crispy chorizo crumble, crunchy jicama & carrots, pineapple, and cilantro. This is definitely a very different ceviche, and the crunchy jicama and carrots just didn't work for me with this dish. Though the flavors were good, it was texturally where this dish failed me, or at least my perceptions of how a ceviche should be.

Our favorite restaurant of the three was clearly Motomaro, an amazing Japanese restaurant that impressed us on so many levels. It is a higher-end restaurant, large and elegant, and we sat at the medium-sized bar. Of course we had to order Sake and the OneTen Purple Yamahai Junmai Ginjo was an excellent choice, a compelling Sake made by a female toji. It was full bodied and crisp, with a mild earthiness and plenty of umami. And it paired very well with the various dishes we ordered.

The food menu is expansive and everything sounds so good that it might be difficult for you to select what you will eat. Based on the four dishes we enjoyed, I don't think you can go wrong with whatever you order. The quality of the food is top-notch, and each dish is carefully and artfully composed and balanced.

The Gyuniku Udon ($18) is made with aged Carlisle family beef, chili beef fat, futo udon, and sesame. The beef is at the bottom of the dish, and came to the top once we mixed up the noodles. The noodles were cooked perfectly, with just the right texture, and the beef was tender and flavorful, with just a touch of spicy heat. Excellent comfort food and a fine start to our visit.

The Live Dungeness Rice ($28) is prepared with dungeness crab, uni, ikura, and split peas. An intriguing melange of textures and flavors, this was another delicious dish with plenty of sweet crab, creamy uni and a bit of green. With each bite, you craved more and more.

Though I'm usually not a big fan of tofu, there have been exceptions. The Age Dashi Tofu ($14), of which I don't have a photo, is created with house tofu, chanterelle mushrooms, and broccoli rabe. The fried tofu was delicious, with a crispy fried coating and a firm tofu texture within, all within an intriguing and flavorful sauce, enhanced by the umami of the mushrooms.

The Simmering Pork Curry Croquettes ($19) is a panko fried rice croquette made with heritage pork. The only minor issue is that the name of the dish indicates multiple croquettes when you actually receive just one. However, it is a large croquette, and reminds me more of a flatter version of  aracini because it is made from rice. A great crunchy exterior, with savory pork within, and a delicious sauce with a great depth of flavor.

Overall, Motomaro receives my highest recommendation. Service was excellent, the food was killer, and their drinks program has plenty of interest.

Our third and final stop was at Duck Duck Goat, part of Chef Stephanie Izard's culinary empire. Duck Duck Goat is stated to be "reasonably authentic Chinese food" and we had to wait a short time before we could get a seat at the bar. By this point, I'd stopped taking photos and was just enjoying the food and drink we ordered.

We started with Jiaozi, beef short rib and bone marrow potstickers, which were incredibly savory, with that powerful tang of bone marrow and plenty of silky short rib. The Pork Fried Rice, made with jasmine and sweet red rice, grilled pork belly and sausage, was certainly much better than the fried rice you find at most Chinese spots. There was a delicious depth of flavor, plenty of tender and delicious pork, and some nice textural elements. My favorite dish of our visit was the Char Siu Bao, a steamed barbecue pork bun, and honestly it was probably the best I've ever tasted. There was plenty of tender pork, bursting with flavor, within the soft and fluffy bun. Great comfort food.

I would like to return to Duck Duck Goat and explore more of their menu. I can easily understand why they get such large crowds, even on a Wednesday evening.

Eating & Drinking in Chicago: Income Tax to Estereo

While shopping at a wine & spirits store in Chicago, we received a recommendation for a nearby wine bar & restaurant, Income Tax, which was only a couple buildings away. Although we already had dinner plans elsewhere, we had a little free time before our reservation so we chose to stop by Income Tax for a drink and a quick bite. We were very fortunate that we made that stop as Income Tax turned out to be an impressive spot.

Located in the Edgewater neighborhood, Income Tax is less than a year old, having opened last December. The restaurant is owned by Nelson Fitch, who is joined by Collin Moody, General Manager, and Chef Ryan Henderson. Interestingly, Nelson is the husband of Veronica Roth, author of the dystopian Divergent series, which was turned into a film series. During our visit, as we sat at the bar, we met Collin, who was personable and knowledgeable.

The restaurant is cozy and elegant, with a lengthy bar and a casual, welcoming vibe. We sidled up to the bar and checked out the drinks menu, which immediately impressed with its diversity. There were seven wines by the glass ($11-$14), almost all French wines, and included a Pet-Nat. There were also four Sherries by the glass ($9-$14) and four Georgian wines that were on special. The bottle list has plenty of interesting choices from all over the world, most sure to interest wine lovers, including many classics but also some hot, new wines, and most were reasonably priced from $50-$100.

They also have a diverse list of Beers and 13 Ciders, including Spanish, French, German and U.S. ciders. Their Spirits list is also diverse and fascinating, and you won't find many of the usual suspects but rather you'll find more small production, artisanal and unique bottlings. You'll also find several Vermouth cocktails as well as other intriguing cocktails. There is so much on their drinks menu to interest an imbiber.

I began with a glass of the Emilio Hidalgo La Panesa Especial Fino Sherry ($14), an amazingly delicious and interesting Fino which is an average of 15 years old. As it has undergone a slight oxidation, the color is more golden. It was rich and full bodied, with a saline element as well as notes of brioche and almonds. During our time at the bar, Collin also offered us complimentary tastes of two other Sherries, the Yuste Manzanilla and the González Byass Tio Pepe En Rama, 2016. Both were delicious in their own right, thrilling a Sherry lover like myself. I also later ordered a glass of the Navazos-Palazzi Ron Oloroso Cask ($16), which I've previously reviewed.

The Food Menu is small but varied, touching on various European cuisines, from Spain to Alsace. The Menu is divided into Bites (4 choices, $4-$10), from Marinated Olives to Strangolapreti (spinach & ricotta dumplings); Jars (3 choices, $10-$12), from Boquerones to Rillettes; Cheese (3 choices, $6-$8); Appetizers (5 choices, $6-$15), from Flammenkuchen to Tortilla Espanola;
and Entrees (5 choices, $15-$25), from Trout Meuniere to Coq au Vin. Much of this is excellent bar food, a fine accompaniment to their varied drinks.

We ordered the Pan Con Tomate ($6), a traditional Spanish dish, made with Saffron toast and Fino Sherry. There was a tomato gelatin-like topping and overall, the dish worked very well, a nice blending of soft and crusty bread with the bright acidity of the tomatoes and the subtle saffron elements. And with a glass of Sherry, it was a superb pairing.

We also opted for a Jar of the Whipped Chèvre ($10), made with sun gold tomatoes and tarragon, and accompanied by home-made bread. As an ardent bread lover, this fresh and soft bread, was delicious and I could have enjoyed it on its own. But, the whipped chèvre was creamy and flavorful, enhanced by the tomatoes, and made for a great spread. It was the type of tasty item which makes you want to lick the jar clean.

These were both relatively simple dishes, but they were executed perfectly, indicative of a skilled kitchen. They certainly made me crave to try some of their entrees, to see that culinary skill on a grander scale. I'd also love to return to try more items from their drinks menu. This is the type of neighborhood spot I would become a regular if it were located close to me. It earns a high recommendation.

Collin of Income Tax also highly recommended that we later check out Estereo, a bar in the Logan Square region, and his recommendation was spot on. During the day, the bar serves coffee and snacks, but at night, it is a full-scale bar, specializing in spirits from Mexico, Central America, and South America. We visited the bar after our dinner. The bar is triangular shaped, open to the street, and Latin American music sets up the lively atmosphere.

The Drinks menu was fascinating and compelling, offering more varieties of Mexican, Central American, and South American spirits than I have ever seen elsewhere. The lengthy list of Pisco, Cachaca, Tequila, Mezcal, and Rum, was mind-boggling. I could spend many a night exploring this list, gaining a deeper appreciation for these spirits. I've never seen another bar with over 25 Pisco on their list. And there was so much wonderful Mezcal!

Of course they create a variety of cocktails ($9-$12) from all of these spirits, such as the Pisco, made with Seedling Farms Rhubarb, Cocchi Americano, Lime, Pina Bitters and Force Carbonated; Agricole, made with Agricole Coconut, Passion Fruit, Absinthe, Lime and Blackstrap; and Rum, made with Paranubes Auguardiente de Cana, Klug Farms Blueberrt, house Falernum, Lime and Frutabomba Bitters. We began the evening with a few cocktails, and they were all delicious, well balanced, and had interesting flavor combinations.

The bartenders were personable, knowledge and very helpful, answering any questions and providing recommendations. So, it was a great place not only to enjoy a great drink but to learn something as well.

At the end of our evening, as we prepared to leave, one of the bartenders came over and offered us a complimentary drink of Mezcal Vago Tobala en Barro, a rare and superb Mezcal, which was distilled in olla de barro, clay pots. This was an especially nice gesture and the Mezcal was a fantastic way to cap the evening.

If you love Pisco, Cachaca, Tequila, Mezcal, or Rum, then this is the bar you need to visit. If you just love intriguing and quality spirits and cocktails, then this is the bar you need to visit. This is a bar where passion is more than evident and it is also simply a fun place to drink and hang out. Highly recommended.

Eating & Drinking In Chicago: Ramen to Duck Fat Fried Chicken

Our second lunch in Chicago was also at an Asian spot, the Slurping Turtle, a ramen restaurant that was established by famed Chef Takashi Yagihashi. Their website states the restaurant is intended to "... recreate for our guests Chef Takashi's childhood culinary experiences in Japan, the essence of Japanese Comfort Food. The turtle is a symbol of longevity in Japan. We invite you to join us in our quest for the Everlasting Noodle." It is a medium-sized restaurant, with some communal tables, a bar, and a second floor dining area. It has a casual and comfortable ambiance, perfect for the idea of comfort food.

The restaurant has a decent-sized Sake list, with options by the glass and bottle, with some interesting choices, and we opted for a 200ml can of the Nihon Sakari Nama Genshu Honjozo, a full-bodied and fresh Sake with lots of delicious umami, making it an excellent pairing with our various dishes.

When I later left the restaurant, I also noticed that they have a killer selection of Japanese whiskey atop their bar, including a couple 17 and 21 year old whiskies. If I had more time, I would have stopped at the bar to check out and taste some of their selections. It was an impressive array and if you love Japanese whiskey, the Slurping Turtle has you covered.

Their food menu has plenty of options, including: Snacks ($4-$11), such as Bao, Edamame and Beef Short Rib; Sashimi & Maki Rolls (most $8-$15); and Ramen/Rice Bowls ($14-$16). We started with the Hamachi Tacos ($11), a tartare of yellowtail with truffle-soy, set into a taro root shell. Plenty of bright citrus flavors, silky fish, with an umami kick and a crunchy shell with a mild vegetal taste. Delicious and nicely balanced.

We also ordered the Eel & Cucumber Roll ($9), which I failed to photograph, and it presented eight pieces of tasty eel rolls with the added crunch and juiciness of the cucumber, with a savory barbecue-like sauce. It was aesthetically pleasing as well as pleasing to the palate.

Wow!! The Duck Fat Fried Chicken ($9), with a salad, was amazing. Each chicken chunk, which was on the bone, was crusted in a crunchy, delectable coating which will haunt your palate. And the chicken itself was succulent and flavorful, making for a killer combo with the coating. Duck fat certainly is a great way to fry many things, like French fries, and with this chicken, it elevated it to another level. If you go to the Slurping Turtle, you MUST get an order of this fried chicken as it is just so damn tasty. One of my favorite dishes from my time in Chicago.

The Pork Belly Bao ($4 each or 3 for $11) was a very good choice, with plenty of tender and flavorful pork belly. A fine snack with a glass of Sake or Japanese whiskey.

The restaurant serves a variety of Ramen dishes, such as Classic Tokyo Shoyu, Tan Tan Ramen, and Shoyu Tofu Mushroom, with plenty of choices for extra toppings. The Spicy Miso Tonkotsu ($15) is a spicy dish, made with chicken, buttered corn, bamboo shoots, bean sprouts, woodear mushrooms, and scallions. It was delicious, with plenty of umami, buttery notes, tender chicken, and a beautiful depth of flavor. Everything you want in a ramen.

If I return to Chicago, I will certainly return to the Slurping Turtle. It impressed me in a number of ways, and that Duck Fat Fried Chicken will remain in my memory for many years to come. It earns my highest recommendation.

Eating & Drinking In Chicago: Soup Dumplings to Pork Belly Cookies

A whirlwind two-day journey to Chicago provided me with plenty of evidence that the city is an excellent place for food & drink. I'm also sure that I only scratched the surface and should return soon to explore further, to seek out more culinary depths in Chicago. Adam Japko and I were in the city to conduct a presentation on Design & Georgian Wine and took advantage of our down time to eat and drink our way across the city.

Our first stop, for lunch, was at QXY Dumplings, located in Chinatown. It's official name is Qing Xiang Yuan, which roughly translates as "far fragrance," and it is well known for its multitude of dumplings, roughly 40 varieties. It is a medium-sized spot, very clean and comfortable, with two large screens showing how the dumplings are created. On a Tuesday afternoon it was relatively quiet though I've heard that weekends are packed, with a line extending out the door.

At the rear of the restaurant, you can watch skilled women hand-crafting the various dumplings. On the menu, there are plenty of dumplings choices for nearly any preference, including fillings such as beef, pork, chicken, seafood, and vegetable, each priced at $9-$14 for a dozen. Unfortunately, you can only order the dumplings by the dozen. I would prefer if they offered smaller sizes, such as a half-dozen, so I could experience more of the different fillings. So, it can be beneficial to go with a large group, which gives you a better opportunity to taste more dumplings.

What also elevates these dumplings is that each one contains a bit of "soup," a juicy burst which might catch you unawares if you don't realize it is inside the dumpling. The menu doesn't mention this juicy burst so I'm sure plenty of first timers didn't know of this fact until biting into one of the dumplings. They don't resemble traditional soup dumplings so you likely wouldn't expect the juicy burst, but once you know, you'll love it! Just be more careful on your initial bite into the dumpling.

Their menu also offers a small amount of Barbecue Skewers and Appetizers, from Lamb Kebab to Chicken Hearts, from Spicy Kimchi to Red Oil Pig Ears. We ordered a plate of Shredded Kelp in Sauce ($5.00), which is a little like a very al dente pasta, with a taste of the sea.

The Lamb & Coriander Dumplings ($9.99) were excellent, with a thin dumpling skin, plenty of savory lamb and a burst of liquid umami. You can see how plump they were, and each was spiced well, making it easy to finish off the dozen.

The Pork & Mushroom Dumplings ($8.99) weren't as aesthetically pleasing as the lamb ones but they were equally as tasty, with the liquid umami enhanced by the natural umami of the mushrooms. It would have been easy to keep ordering more dumplings until we were ready to burst but we wanted to leave some room for eating at other spots.

If you are in Chicago, I highly recommend you check out QXY Dumplings. 

After lunch, we wandered around Chinatown, just checking out the various other restaurants, bakeries and shops. At one point, we stopped at the Saint Anna Bakery & Cafe and decided to get a couple of pork buns. However, we spied the above sign. Pork Belly Cookies??!! How could we resist, especially when one of the bakery staff raved about them. We bought one of the plastic containers of cookies and weren't disappointed.

It isn't easy to describe these cookies. The cookie itself is a little flaky with a bit of a sweet glaze, and they definitely have pieces of crunchy pork belly and fat within them. And the rich taste of the pork belly is more than evident, an intriguing blend of sweet and salty, both savory and dessert. This shouldn't be that surprising of a dessert considering that there are numerous desserts that add bacon. Plus, the combination of sweet and salty is a killer mix. Why doesn't a bakery in Boston's Chinatown make this type of cookie?

Rant: Planning Ahead & Being Spontaneous

If you're traveling to another city, do you plan ahead, researching the restaurants, bars, wine shops, bakeries, and other such places that you want to visit? Or do you prefer to be spontaneous and simply wander around, hoping to find places of interest? I know travelers on both sides of this issue though my own position is closer to a middle ground, trying to avoid the disadvantages of each choice while gaining the benefits of both.

For example, last week I traveled to Chicago, for the first time in over twenty years, for a couple of days with a very good friend. As it was a short trip, I knew we needed to pack as much as possible into our brief time. For me, that entailed researching Chicago, learning the names of some of the most interesting restaurants, bars, and such. With that information, I had a solid foundation for the exploration of Chicago, having located places which appealed to our interests and preferences. Chicago is a very big city so we would never have just stumbled upon all of those places on our own.

We had lots of luck with the places I researched and then visited, from QXY Dumplings, a killer soup dumpling spot, to Motomaro, an amazing Japanese restaurant. And with my preplanning, we were able to set up a restaurant crawl for one evening, dining at three restaurants for dinner, each place about a block or so away from each other. Simply wandering around might not have led us to these three restaurants.

However, some spontaneity and flexibility was warranted as well. We didn't preplan every minute we'd be in Chicago, leaving open time to explore the city. After enjoying a delightful lunch at QXY Dumplings, we wandered around Chinatown and stumbled upon a bakery that sold Pork Belly Cookies! I never saw anything in my researches about those cookies in Chicago. Later, we stopped at a wine & spirits store and received a recommendation to check out a nearby wine bar & restaurant, Income Tax, which turned out to be a very cool spot. And at Income Tax, we received another excellent recommendation, to Estereo, a great bar with plenty of Pisco, Mezcal, Cachaca, Tequila and other similar spirits.

If we had been rigid in our plans, we never would have encountered those spots. And only a balanced approach, of both prior research & planning, mixed with some spontaneity, would have led to the best results. I spoke to someone else who was visiting Chicago at the same time as us, and they were amazed at all the places we had visited, places she knew nothing about. Her own experiences, which seemed based almost entirely on spontaneity without any preplanning, weren't as successful.


We had an amazing time in Chicago, filling both days with lots of incredible food and drink. In the near future, I will be writing much more detail about my travels to Chicago. If you travel, I highly recommend you do your research first, and then ensure you allow time to be spontaneous, to wander around seeing what you might find.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Slated to open late next month, Bodega Canal will bring elevated Mexican fare and flare to the TD Garden neighborhood. Owner of North End gastropub Ward 8 and newcomer North Square Oyster, Nicholas Frattaroli aims to elevate Mexican dining with the “rustic luxe” concept. Bodega Canal will offer an alternative to the sports bar-heavy neighborhood with a fresh, lively destination for guests to enjoy a delicious meal, pre- or post-game drink, or fun night out on the town.

Helmed by Chef Kenny Schweizer, who also oversees the kitchen at Frattaroli’s Ward 8., Bodega Canal’s menu will offer a variety of house-made guacamoles, appetizers, tortas, salads, entrées, and, of course, plenty of classic and reimagined tacos. Menu highlights will include: Mole Short Rib with dirty rice and roasted green beans; Buttered Lobster Tacos with butter-poached lobster, grilled corn pico de gallo, cojita; and ancho crema, and Queso Fundido with chorizo and poblano rajas.

Ward 8’s General Manager Mike Wyatt will oversee the bar program as beverage manager to develop a creative, carefully curated cocktail, beer, and wine menu. With a full liquor license, Bodega Canal will serve up a wide variety of options including: a variety of margaritas; three frozen drink options; red, white, and rosé sangria; signature cocktails; shareable drinks; South American and Spanish wines; Mexican soft drinks; Mexican coffees; and domestic and foreign beers available by draft or the bottle.

“Always having loved Mexico’s cuisine and its rich culture, our team is excited to open a space that celebrates the vibrancy and boldness of Mexican flavors and dishes. In an area brimming with sports bars, we’re looking forward to bringing a fresh, new, sophisticated concept to Canal Street. We felt there was a need for a really great quality restaurant and bar that offers guests a fun atmosphere as well as elevated food and drink; we hope Bodega Canal meets that need!" says Frattaroli.

Located at 57 Canal St., Boston, MA, Bodega Canal will be open daily. The bar will be open Sunday through Wednesday from 11:30 to 1 a.m., and Thursday through Saturday from 11:30 to 2 a.m. Lunch will be served daily from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner will be served Sunday through Thursday from 5 to 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5 to 11 p.m. Weekend brunch service will begin at a later date. For more information, please visit www.bodegacanal.com

2) Every Tuesday, from 11am-6pm, Temazcal Tequila Cantina in Lynnfield will celebrate Taco Tuesday. They will offer handcrafted tacos for ½ off, for lunch or early dinner and drinks. Choose from any of Temazcal’s tacos, served with Mexican rice and black beans, including: grilled vegetable tacos, grilled chicken tacos, fish tacos, lettuce wrap Ahi Tuna tacos, lettuce wrap grilled salmon tacos, Asada skirt steak tacos, or tacos mechados (braised short ribs).

3) Executive Chef Matt Drummond, Bar Manager Kaitlyn Fischer, and the crew at Loco Taqueria & Oyster Bar welcome autumn with a special fall Columbus Day edition of brunch on Monday, October 9, from 10am-3pm.

Executive Chef Matt Drummond will be dishing out Loco’s signature brunch items like Avocado Toast (marble rye, aji Amarillo goat cheese, smoked mahi mahi, avocado), the decadent PB&J French Toast (peanut butter & berry jam stuffed, banana foster sauce, spiced peanuts), savory Cubano (carnitas, tasso ham, queso, house pickles, special sauce) and other fall-inspired specials.

Those looking for a liquid brunch can keep the weekend going with signature cocktails from Bar Manager Kaitlyn Fischer, including the cult-favorite Coco Margarita and a variety of other seasonal sippers.

4) On Thursday, October 12, from 7pm-9pm, Tavolo Ristorante will host a Mushroom Dinner Extravaganza. Chef Eric will present each course and Dunk, from Dunks Mushroom Products & Foraging LLC, will also join in to showcase a selection of mushrooms and products that he cultivates locally, and that we take pride in cooking.

The Menu:
1st Course: Wild Mushroom Bruschetta - black stainer foccacia, Langwater Farm garlic, local quail eggs, italian black truffles
2nd Course: Lacto Salad - mixed mushroom conserva, lacto green beans, Judy's greens, housemade black garlic, mushroom jerky
3rd Course: Beef Tartar - king of the woods crown, farm shallots, herbs, dandilion mustard
4th Course: Chitarra Ramen - serrano chili, chitarra, wild sassafras and umami broth, jenny's duck eggs, shroom accutrements
5th Course: Chaga Panna Cotta - matsutake, maple gummies, vanilla and pine froth

With complimentary amuse bouche and tea course! Menu subject to change. Vegetarian option available.

Cost: $50 per person. Drink pairings for an additional $30.
Limited spots available so get your tickets now at Eventbrite.

5) Culinary creativity is nothing new for Chef Leo Asaro who has been Chef de Cuisine at Michael Schlow’s Latin-inspired eatery Tico since 2014.

This Fall, Asaro’s bringing something new to Tico's table with “Leo’s Lab” - an interactive dining experience where guests get a front row seat for the appetizing action of Asaro’s artistry at Tico's intimate chef counter. From cocktail concoctions to delectable dishes, “Leo’s Lab” is a culinary journey through bites, sips and anecdotes and an unmatched celebration of sensory stimulation.

"Leo’s Lab" will be in business on select Tuesday and Wednesday evenings with one 6:30 pm seating for up to 8 guests. Tickets are $75 per person (not including taxes or gratuity), and include a welcome sip of champagne, one cocktail creation, five savory courses and a dessert finale served with a side of friendly banter with fellow guests and a culinary discussion throughout the meal with Asaro himself.

This series kicked off on October 3rd and upcoming dates include:
Tuesday, October 3
Wednesday, October 18
Wednesday, November 8
Tuesday, November 28
Tuesday, December 5
Tuesday, December 19

Asaro has spent over a decade mastering his culinary craft and coming up with fun, new ways to engage diners. The Johnson and Wales graduate studied under Chef Daniel Boulud before finding a home in Schlow’s restaurant group. Impressed with his skills and ability to design beautiful dishes, Schlow brought Asaro up the ranks from Sous Chef of his renowned restaurant Radius, to Executive Chef of beloved Via Matta, and eventually to his current post at Tico in the Back Bay.

For tickets and more information on Leo’s Lab, visit http://www.ticoboston.com/leo-s-lab.

6) You may already be aware of the famed Craigie Burger – but did you know that you can enjoy it this Friday for lunch at Craigie On Main? You can also pair it with a beer from Exhibit A Brewing. Tony Maws started this once a month Craigie Burger & Beer event in the summer with Notch Brewing, and cooked for sold-out crowds. So this fall he is welcoming Exhibit A Brewery to Cambridge on October 6, November 3 and December 8. Mark your calendars now, these lunch events sell out!

Date: Friday, October 6
Time: 11:30am – 2:00pm
Price: $18.00 / Craigie Burger. Your choice of beverage is not included in the $18
To make Reservations, go to this : Eventbrite Link:

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/burger-lunch-at-craigie-on-main-with-exhibit-a-tickets-38202200811