Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) ExeElvis and Nixon

A bizarre intersection of American pop culture and politics is recounted in Elvis and Nixon, which stars Michael Shannon as the King of Rock 'n' Roll and Kevin Spacey as Tricky Dick.

It's the story of a famous photograph taken in the Oval Office in 1970, in which the President shakes hands with the King, and Presley asked to be sworn in as a special undercover agent of the Bureau of Narcotics and Dangerous Drugs, and to be given a badge.

Other stars in the indie comedy-drama include the ever-reliable Colin Hanks, plus Alex Pettyfer, Johnny Knoxville, Evan Peters, Tracy Letts and Tate Donovan.

Critical reception is mostly favorable.

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Also opening

Independence Day: Resurgence – Twenty years after the first Independence Day, director Roland Emmerich gets most of the band back together for another epic of special-effects-driven global destruction. Jeff Goldblum, Bill Pullman, Judd Hirsch and Brent Spiner are among the returnees with Will Smith among the notables not appearing. This is imagined as a reboot of the ID franchise and could be the first of a trilogy. However, early critical reception is not so good so far.

A Hologram for the King – Colin Hanks' dad is a down-and-out businessman who takes a gamble on landing a big deal with Saudi Arabia's monarch, who envisages a massive economic development rising up from the nothingness of the desert. The stressed-out exec has a panic attack, and is nursed back to health by a Saudi woman (Sarita Choudhury from Homeland), and the two hit it off in a taboo star-crossed romance. The story is based on a novel by Dave Eggers, who also wrote the screenplay. Tom Tykwer (Run Lola Run, Cloud Atlas) directs. Critical reception is mixed.

Queen of the Desert – Nicole Kidman portrays Gertrude Bell in this historical drama, chronicling the achievements of the intrepid British explorer, diplomat and writer in the Middle East in the late 1800s and early 1900s. James Franco, Damian Lewis and Jenny Agutter are among the other stars, along with Robert Pattinson, who plays Colonel T.E. Lawrence. It's the first feature in six years from the veteran writer-director Werner Herzog. Sadly, critical reception is generally negative.

Raman Ragav 2.0 – Nawazuddin Siddiqui portrays a serial killer who preyed on citizens in 1960s Mumbai, using a steel rod to smash victims' heads to bits. Vicky Kaushal also stars. It's in Hindi with English and Thai subtitles at Major Cineplex Sukhumvit, Rama III and Pattaya. Opens Friday.

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Also showing

The European Union Film Festival is under way at CentralWorld. I covered the offerings in a special post last week. The opening film, the terrific Tale of Tales, unfortunately won't be repeated during the festival, but it has been picked up by the small Thai distributor Mono Film, and hopefully it will soon get a decent general release. There are also screenings at the usual places I cover here, the Friese-Greene Club and Alliance Francaise. But I'm not going into details about those because ...

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Take note

I am cutting things short this week in order to say farewell.

It's been my pleasure to bring you news of new movie releases and film events in Bangkok these past several years, but now it is time for me to shift my focus to other matters besides what's playing in Bangkok cinemas.

I leave you with an urging to get out and watch films in the cinema, and please support Bangkok's handful of independent theaters – House and Lido and especially the Scala.















Thanks for reading.cutive Chef Nick Dixon and the Lincoln Tavern & Restaurant team welcome colder weather with new seasonal menu items and the return of Thursday Night Ramen.

Fall menu highlights include:
WEEKDAY BRUNCH (Monday – Thursday, 10am-3pm)
--Pumpkin Pancakes with graham cracker crumble, cream cheese frosting, plump golden raisins, bourbon maple syrup
--Pastrami Hash with house smoked brisket, piquillo peppers, smashed Yukon potatoes, sautéed leeks, poached eggs, whole grain mustard hollandaise
--Smoked Salmon Benedict ciabatta bread, smashed avocado, house smoked pastrami salmon, lemon hollandaise, lemon dressed greens
--Pork Carnitas Burrito crispy smoked pork, salsa verde, tater tots, runny egg
DINNER
--French Onion Soup Meatballs pork and beef meatballs, Gruyere cheese, garlic croutons, French onion soup
--Salmon Quinoa Bowl with wood-fired Faroe Island Salmon, quinoa, fresh sage, roasted winter squash, red grapes, Vermont goat cheese, apple maple vinaigrette
--Cast Iron Seared Pork Chop sage and buttermilk brined Berkshire pork chop, seared Brussels sprouts, shallot confit, roasted baby carrots, apple bourbon jam, hard cider reduction.
--Kung Pao Brussels Sprouts with Szechuan peppercorns, shishito peppers, honey roasted peanuts, sweet chili sauce
--Shaved Apple Salad mixed greens, plump golden raisins, shaved Honeycrisp apples, Vermont goat cheese, honey mustard dressing
--Butternut Squash Pizza fontina, bacon, caramelized onions, pecorino Romano, rosemary oil
WEEKEND BRUNCH (Saturday & Sunday, 9am-3pm)
--Dark Chocolate Waffle peanut butter drizzle, hot fudge sauce, maple whipped cream, honey roasted peanuts
--Hot Smoked Pastrami Sandwich Gruyere cheese, sauerkraut, spicy mustard, griddled Iggy’s rye bread
--Thick Sliced French Toast cinnamon brioche, brown butter pastry cream, caramelized apples and cinnamon, Vermont maple pecan syrup, Applewood smoked bacon
--Apple Cinnamon Oatmeal old fashioned rolled oats, roasted honeycrisp apples, cinnamon, nutmeg, cream

The Lincoln team continues with Brunch Test Kitchen every Friday this fall, where you can find a rotating lineup of brunch items and boozy milkshakes available for one day only (Friday 10am – 2pm). Guests can also toast to fall with a variety of new fall cocktails from Beverage Manager Rob Macaffrey, including the Autumn Mule (vodka, apple cider, caramel, lime), Candy Apple (gin, apple liqueur, cranberries, ginger) and Maple Crisp (rum, maple, apple, lime).

Every Thursday, starting at 5pm, Ramen returns to the Lincoln menu, featuring Chef Dixon’s traditional Bacon Dashi broth, complete with rotating Asian-inspired snacks to accompany Lincoln’s signature Ramen ($15). Ramen is available on Thursday evenings only, now through February 2018.

2) Jack’s Coal Fired Pizza has opened its first location in Burlington with a menu of handcrafted pizzas, pastas and wings, brought to life within the restaurant’s coal fired and wood fired ovens, made in Italy. As the name suggests, the coal fired concept is carried throughout Jack’s, influencing everything from the cocktail program to the interior décor. Helmed by Executive Chef Steve Walsh, the all-new 6,000-square-foot eatery and bar is located in Burlington in the property formerly occupied by Papa Razzi.

Patrons can indulge in hand stretched 16” Coal Fired Pies, 12” Wood Fired Pies, and a selection of starters, pastas and green salads in addition to nearly 40 craft and local beers and an array of wine and specialty cocktails like the Coal Fired Peach Lemonade (Tito’s, white peach puree, charred lemonade, coal fired peaches), made using lemons and peaches singed in the coal fired oven. Menu choices crafted in the coal fired oven include the Coal Fired Wings (lemon herb-rubbed or buffalo), the Swine & Sprouts (tomato, roasted Brussels sprouts, pork belly, mozzarella, garlic, balsamic reduction), White Clam (béchamel sauce, mozzarella, garlic, oregano, bacon), and Picante (tomato, pepperoni, sausage, mozzarella, banana peppers).

Jack’s Wood Fired Pizzas are cooked using white oak wood, and include choices like the Margherita, Popeye (mozzarella, feta, spinach, roasted garlic, olives), and West Coast (mozzarella, fig jam, prosciutto, bleu cheese, peppadew, onion, arugula). Guests can end their Jack’s Coal Fired Pizza experience on a sweet note with the homemade Banaffee Pie (graham cracker, toffee, banana, and custard) or homemade Carrot Cake (walnuts, cream cheese frosting).

Jack’s Coal Fired Pizza is open from 11:00am – 1:00am daily. Their menu seems to be larger than the other coal fired pizza restaurants in the area. Plus, the addition of the wood fired oven is an intriguing extra.

3) On Wednesday, October 25, you can meet Jeffrey Roberts, author of both the Atlas of American Artisan Cheese and the newly released Salted & Cured, the history of charcuterie in America, at The Cheese Shop of Concord. You can meet Jeff at two different segments:

3:30pm–5:30pm: Chat with Jeff, purchase a signed copy of his books if you like, and enjoy some cheese & charcuterie nibbles paired with exquisite Spanish Cider, courtesy of Ciders of Spain. No reservation required – just stop on by!

6:30pm–8pm: A more formal and intimate presentation given by Jeffrey & The Cheese Shop of Concord’s Peter Lovis featuring a series of a half dozen cheese, charcuterie and Spanish cider pairings – hosted by The Cheese Shop & Ciders of Spain. Space is very limited - just 16 attendees. A $22.09 reservation fee is required, which will be given back to you as a $20 store credit to spend that evening on any of the featured items (the difference being the processing fee). Register soon as this rare event will quickly reach capacity. Buy your ticket here on Eventbrite.

The Pairing will include:
(A) Hubbardston Blue. Westfield Farm (Fanjul Natural)
Prosciutto Americano. La Quercia –
(B) Harbison. Jasper Hill Farm (Guzman Riestra)
Guanciale. Olli.
(C) Ashbrook. Spring Brook Farm (Angelon 1947)
Beef Bresaola. Larchmont –
(D1) West-West Blue. Parish Hill Creamery
(Sidra de Pera/Diamantes de Hielo)
(D2) Wild boar salami. Creminelli – (Riestra Natural)

4) On Wednesday, November 1, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, Post 390 is hosting a one-of-a-kind dinner, part of their "Farm to Post" series, featuring coffee and cacao beans from New England’s top local coffee roasters and chocolate makers. Executive Chef Nick Deutmeyer and the team at Post 390 welcome guests to satisfy their taste buds at a special four-course dinner featuring local coffee roasters and chocolatiers. This dinner includes a welcome reception and a four-course dinner with specially-paired beverages. Guests will be able to mingle with artisan roasters and chocolatiers who will answer questions throughout the dinner.

The menu is as follows:
RECEPTION
COCOA NIB LAVASH (Cashew butter, apple)
MINI BUTTERMILK BISCUITS (Brown sugar cured ham, whipped coffee butter)
BEEF & SCALLION MEATBALLS (Black coffee barbeque sauce)
FIRST COURSE
PUFFED BUCKWHEAT & COFFEE ROASTED ROOTS (Heirloom carrots, baby turnips & beets, sautéed kale, espresso vinaigrette)
SECOND COURSE
COFFEE & CROISSANT (Veal, caramelized onion & coffee bouillon, steamed milk, short rib & gruyere croissant)
ENTRÉE COURSE
GREEN COFFEE BEAN SMOKED DUCK BREAST (Cocoa parsnip puree, caramelized pear, brussels sprout leaves, coffee dusted confit & cherry croquette)
DESSERT
TAZA AFFOGATO SUNDAE (Coconut dulce de leche, cocoa nib brioche, espresso)

Cost: Tickets are $55 per person (inclusive of beer and appetizers).





















Space is limited and reservations are required.  To purchase tickets, visit https://www.eventbrite.com/e/farm-to-post-local-roasters-dinner-tickets-38656906849

Eating & Drinking In Chicago: One Dinner, Three Restaurants

On one evening in Chicago, we decided to do a bit of a restaurant crawl for dinner, visiting three different restaurants, all located within roughly a block or so of each other. Sure, we could have dined at just one place, but as we only had two evenings in Chicago, we wanted to experience as much as possible. The three restaurants were located in the Fulton Market neighborhood, which seems to be filled with many different restaurants, making it easy to walk from spot to spot.

We began our culinary journey at Leña Brava, a Rick Bayless restaurant which specializes in the cuisine of Baja California Norte. What initially intrigued me about this place was their drinks list, which includes over 30 Mexican wines from the Valle de Guadalupe, as well as a huge Mezcal list. In the photo above, you can see some of those Mezcal bottles displayed on one of the walls. I enjoyed a glass of the exquisite Pierde Almas Tobala Mezcal, and was also impressed with one of their cocktails, the delicious Negroni-ish, made with Siete Misterios Doba Yej mezcal, pineapple and cinnamon infused Aperol, and Carpano Antica.

Their Food Menu is essentially broken down into two sections, Ice & Fire, cold and hot dishes, and we chose to concentrate on the Ice section. The Ice sections is broken down into Oysters & Uni, Aguechiles, Ceviches, Cocteles, Laminados, and Salads. Their website states: "Our seafood is sourced from sustainable fisheries and environmentally responsible aquaculture enterprises." That is always an important element to see in a restaurant.

The Uni, Scallion pancakes, Oaxacan Pasilla ($27) is created with West Coast sea urchin, scallion-sesame corn masa pancakes, Oxacan papilla crema, pickled Klug Farm peaches (Szechuan pepper), tobiko, and baby corn. This was tasty, with a nice blend of textures and flavors, from the creamy uni to the slightly crunchy peaches.

From the Aguachiles section, we ordered the Opah Watermelon ($15), Sashimi-grade West Coast Opah in a spicy-watermelon-chiltepin "broth" with savory grilled watermelon, tomatoes, cucamelons, and garlic chive oil. This was the best of the three dishes we ordered, with silky opah, enhanced by the sweetness of the watermelon, with acidity from the tomatoes and a bit of tang from the garlic chive oil.

The Scallop Ceviche Al Pastor ($18) is made from Hudson Canyon diver scallops, a limey ceviche "broth" with flavors of tacos al pastor, crispy chorizo crumble, crunchy jicama & carrots, pineapple, and cilantro. This is definitely a very different ceviche, and the crunchy jicama and carrots just didn't work for me with this dish. Though the flavors were good, it was texturally where this dish failed me, or at least my perceptions of how a ceviche should be.

Our favorite restaurant of the three was clearly Motomaro, an amazing Japanese restaurant that impressed us on so many levels. It is a higher-end restaurant, large and elegant, and we sat at the medium-sized bar. Of course we had to order Sake and the OneTen Purple Yamahai Junmai Ginjo was an excellent choice, a compelling Sake made by a female toji. It was full bodied and crisp, with a mild earthiness and plenty of umami. And it paired very well with the various dishes we ordered.

The food menu is expansive and everything sounds so good that it might be difficult for you to select what you will eat. Based on the four dishes we enjoyed, I don't think you can go wrong with whatever you order. The quality of the food is top-notch, and each dish is carefully and artfully composed and balanced.

The Gyuniku Udon ($18) is made with aged Carlisle family beef, chili beef fat, futo udon, and sesame. The beef is at the bottom of the dish, and came to the top once we mixed up the noodles. The noodles were cooked perfectly, with just the right texture, and the beef was tender and flavorful, with just a touch of spicy heat. Excellent comfort food and a fine start to our visit.

The Live Dungeness Rice ($28) is prepared with dungeness crab, uni, ikura, and split peas. An intriguing melange of textures and flavors, this was another delicious dish with plenty of sweet crab, creamy uni and a bit of green. With each bite, you craved more and more.

Though I'm usually not a big fan of tofu, there have been exceptions. The Age Dashi Tofu ($14), of which I don't have a photo, is created with house tofu, chanterelle mushrooms, and broccoli rabe. The fried tofu was delicious, with a crispy fried coating and a firm tofu texture within, all within an intriguing and flavorful sauce, enhanced by the umami of the mushrooms.

The Simmering Pork Curry Croquettes ($19) is a panko fried rice croquette made with heritage pork. The only minor issue is that the name of the dish indicates multiple croquettes when you actually receive just one. However, it is a large croquette, and reminds me more of a flatter version of  aracini because it is made from rice. A great crunchy exterior, with savory pork within, and a delicious sauce with a great depth of flavor.

Overall, Motomaro receives my highest recommendation. Service was excellent, the food was killer, and their drinks program has plenty of interest.

Our third and final stop was at Duck Duck Goat, part of Chef Stephanie Izard's culinary empire. Duck Duck Goat is stated to be "reasonably authentic Chinese food" and we had to wait a short time before we could get a seat at the bar. By this point, I'd stopped taking photos and was just enjoying the food and drink we ordered.

We started with Jiaozi, beef short rib and bone marrow potstickers, which were incredibly savory, with that powerful tang of bone marrow and plenty of silky short rib. The Pork Fried Rice, made with jasmine and sweet red rice, grilled pork belly and sausage, was certainly much better than the fried rice you find at most Chinese spots. There was a delicious depth of flavor, plenty of tender and delicious pork, and some nice textural elements. My favorite dish of our visit was the Char Siu Bao, a steamed barbecue pork bun, and honestly it was probably the best I've ever tasted. There was plenty of tender pork, bursting with flavor, within the soft and fluffy bun. Great comfort food.

I would like to return to Duck Duck Goat and explore more of their menu. I can easily understand why they get such large crowds, even on a Wednesday evening.

Eating & Drinking in Chicago: Income Tax to Estereo

While shopping at a wine & spirits store in Chicago, we received a recommendation for a nearby wine bar & restaurant, Income Tax, which was only a couple buildings away. Although we already had dinner plans elsewhere, we had a little free time before our reservation so we chose to stop by Income Tax for a drink and a quick bite. We were very fortunate that we made that stop as Income Tax turned out to be an impressive spot.

Located in the Edgewater neighborhood, Income Tax is less than a year old, having opened last December. The restaurant is owned by Nelson Fitch, who is joined by Collin Moody, General Manager, and Chef Ryan Henderson. Interestingly, Nelson is the husband of Veronica Roth, author of the dystopian Divergent series, which was turned into a film series. During our visit, as we sat at the bar, we met Collin, who was personable and knowledgeable.

The restaurant is cozy and elegant, with a lengthy bar and a casual, welcoming vibe. We sidled up to the bar and checked out the drinks menu, which immediately impressed with its diversity. There were seven wines by the glass ($11-$14), almost all French wines, and included a Pet-Nat. There were also four Sherries by the glass ($9-$14) and four Georgian wines that were on special. The bottle list has plenty of interesting choices from all over the world, most sure to interest wine lovers, including many classics but also some hot, new wines, and most were reasonably priced from $50-$100.

They also have a diverse list of Beers and 13 Ciders, including Spanish, French, German and U.S. ciders. Their Spirits list is also diverse and fascinating, and you won't find many of the usual suspects but rather you'll find more small production, artisanal and unique bottlings. You'll also find several Vermouth cocktails as well as other intriguing cocktails. There is so much on their drinks menu to interest an imbiber.

I began with a glass of the Emilio Hidalgo La Panesa Especial Fino Sherry ($14), an amazingly delicious and interesting Fino which is an average of 15 years old. As it has undergone a slight oxidation, the color is more golden. It was rich and full bodied, with a saline element as well as notes of brioche and almonds. During our time at the bar, Collin also offered us complimentary tastes of two other Sherries, the Yuste Manzanilla and the González Byass Tio Pepe En Rama, 2016. Both were delicious in their own right, thrilling a Sherry lover like myself. I also later ordered a glass of the Navazos-Palazzi Ron Oloroso Cask ($16), which I've previously reviewed.

The Food Menu is small but varied, touching on various European cuisines, from Spain to Alsace. The Menu is divided into Bites (4 choices, $4-$10), from Marinated Olives to Strangolapreti (spinach & ricotta dumplings); Jars (3 choices, $10-$12), from Boquerones to Rillettes; Cheese (3 choices, $6-$8); Appetizers (5 choices, $6-$15), from Flammenkuchen to Tortilla Espanola;
and Entrees (5 choices, $15-$25), from Trout Meuniere to Coq au Vin. Much of this is excellent bar food, a fine accompaniment to their varied drinks.

We ordered the Pan Con Tomate ($6), a traditional Spanish dish, made with Saffron toast and Fino Sherry. There was a tomato gelatin-like topping and overall, the dish worked very well, a nice blending of soft and crusty bread with the bright acidity of the tomatoes and the subtle saffron elements. And with a glass of Sherry, it was a superb pairing.

We also opted for a Jar of the Whipped Chèvre ($10), made with sun gold tomatoes and tarragon, and accompanied by home-made bread. As an ardent bread lover, this fresh and soft bread, was delicious and I could have enjoyed it on its own. But, the whipped chèvre was creamy and flavorful, enhanced by the tomatoes, and made for a great spread. It was the type of tasty item which makes you want to lick the jar clean.

These were both relatively simple dishes, but they were executed perfectly, indicative of a skilled kitchen. They certainly made me crave to try some of their entrees, to see that culinary skill on a grander scale. I'd also love to return to try more items from their drinks menu. This is the type of neighborhood spot I would become a regular if it were located close to me. It earns a high recommendation.

Collin of Income Tax also highly recommended that we later check out Estereo, a bar in the Logan Square region, and his recommendation was spot on. During the day, the bar serves coffee and snacks, but at night, it is a full-scale bar, specializing in spirits from Mexico, Central America, and South America. We visited the bar after our dinner. The bar is triangular shaped, open to the street, and Latin American music sets up the lively atmosphere.

The Drinks menu was fascinating and compelling, offering more varieties of Mexican, Central American, and South American spirits than I have ever seen elsewhere. The lengthy list of Pisco, Cachaca, Tequila, Mezcal, and Rum, was mind-boggling. I could spend many a night exploring this list, gaining a deeper appreciation for these spirits. I've never seen another bar with over 25 Pisco on their list. And there was so much wonderful Mezcal!

Of course they create a variety of cocktails ($9-$12) from all of these spirits, such as the Pisco, made with Seedling Farms Rhubarb, Cocchi Americano, Lime, Pina Bitters and Force Carbonated; Agricole, made with Agricole Coconut, Passion Fruit, Absinthe, Lime and Blackstrap; and Rum, made with Paranubes Auguardiente de Cana, Klug Farms Blueberrt, house Falernum, Lime and Frutabomba Bitters. We began the evening with a few cocktails, and they were all delicious, well balanced, and had interesting flavor combinations.

The bartenders were personable, knowledge and very helpful, answering any questions and providing recommendations. So, it was a great place not only to enjoy a great drink but to learn something as well.

At the end of our evening, as we prepared to leave, one of the bartenders came over and offered us a complimentary drink of Mezcal Vago Tobala en Barro, a rare and superb Mezcal, which was distilled in olla de barro, clay pots. This was an especially nice gesture and the Mezcal was a fantastic way to cap the evening.

If you love Pisco, Cachaca, Tequila, Mezcal, or Rum, then this is the bar you need to visit. If you just love intriguing and quality spirits and cocktails, then this is the bar you need to visit. This is a bar where passion is more than evident and it is also simply a fun place to drink and hang out. Highly recommended.

Eating & Drinking In Chicago: Ramen to Duck Fat Fried Chicken

Our second lunch in Chicago was also at an Asian spot, the Slurping Turtle, a ramen restaurant that was established by famed Chef Takashi Yagihashi. Their website states the restaurant is intended to "... recreate for our guests Chef Takashi's childhood culinary experiences in Japan, the essence of Japanese Comfort Food. The turtle is a symbol of longevity in Japan. We invite you to join us in our quest for the Everlasting Noodle." It is a medium-sized restaurant, with some communal tables, a bar, and a second floor dining area. It has a casual and comfortable ambiance, perfect for the idea of comfort food.

The restaurant has a decent-sized Sake list, with options by the glass and bottle, with some interesting choices, and we opted for a 200ml can of the Nihon Sakari Nama Genshu Honjozo, a full-bodied and fresh Sake with lots of delicious umami, making it an excellent pairing with our various dishes.

When I later left the restaurant, I also noticed that they have a killer selection of Japanese whiskey atop their bar, including a couple 17 and 21 year old whiskies. If I had more time, I would have stopped at the bar to check out and taste some of their selections. It was an impressive array and if you love Japanese whiskey, the Slurping Turtle has you covered.

Their food menu has plenty of options, including: Snacks ($4-$11), such as Bao, Edamame and Beef Short Rib; Sashimi & Maki Rolls (most $8-$15); and Ramen/Rice Bowls ($14-$16). We started with the Hamachi Tacos ($11), a tartare of yellowtail with truffle-soy, set into a taro root shell. Plenty of bright citrus flavors, silky fish, with an umami kick and a crunchy shell with a mild vegetal taste. Delicious and nicely balanced.

We also ordered the Eel & Cucumber Roll ($9), which I failed to photograph, and it presented eight pieces of tasty eel rolls with the added crunch and juiciness of the cucumber, with a savory barbecue-like sauce. It was aesthetically pleasing as well as pleasing to the palate.

Wow!! The Duck Fat Fried Chicken ($9), with a salad, was amazing. Each chicken chunk, which was on the bone, was crusted in a crunchy, delectable coating which will haunt your palate. And the chicken itself was succulent and flavorful, making for a killer combo with the coating. Duck fat certainly is a great way to fry many things, like French fries, and with this chicken, it elevated it to another level. If you go to the Slurping Turtle, you MUST get an order of this fried chicken as it is just so damn tasty. One of my favorite dishes from my time in Chicago.

The Pork Belly Bao ($4 each or 3 for $11) was a very good choice, with plenty of tender and flavorful pork belly. A fine snack with a glass of Sake or Japanese whiskey.

The restaurant serves a variety of Ramen dishes, such as Classic Tokyo Shoyu, Tan Tan Ramen, and Shoyu Tofu Mushroom, with plenty of choices for extra toppings. The Spicy Miso Tonkotsu ($15) is a spicy dish, made with chicken, buttered corn, bamboo shoots, bean sprouts, woodear mushrooms, and scallions. It was delicious, with plenty of umami, buttery notes, tender chicken, and a beautiful depth of flavor. Everything you want in a ramen.

If I return to Chicago, I will certainly return to the Slurping Turtle. It impressed me in a number of ways, and that Duck Fat Fried Chicken will remain in my memory for many years to come. It earns my highest recommendation.

Eating & Drinking In Chicago: Soup Dumplings to Pork Belly Cookies

A whirlwind two-day journey to Chicago provided me with plenty of evidence that the city is an excellent place for food & drink. I'm also sure that I only scratched the surface and should return soon to explore further, to seek out more culinary depths in Chicago. Adam Japko and I were in the city to conduct a presentation on Design & Georgian Wine and took advantage of our down time to eat and drink our way across the city.

Our first stop, for lunch, was at QXY Dumplings, located in Chinatown. It's official name is Qing Xiang Yuan, which roughly translates as "far fragrance," and it is well known for its multitude of dumplings, roughly 40 varieties. It is a medium-sized spot, very clean and comfortable, with two large screens showing how the dumplings are created. On a Tuesday afternoon it was relatively quiet though I've heard that weekends are packed, with a line extending out the door.

At the rear of the restaurant, you can watch skilled women hand-crafting the various dumplings. On the menu, there are plenty of dumplings choices for nearly any preference, including fillings such as beef, pork, chicken, seafood, and vegetable, each priced at $9-$14 for a dozen. Unfortunately, you can only order the dumplings by the dozen. I would prefer if they offered smaller sizes, such as a half-dozen, so I could experience more of the different fillings. So, it can be beneficial to go with a large group, which gives you a better opportunity to taste more dumplings.

What also elevates these dumplings is that each one contains a bit of "soup," a juicy burst which might catch you unawares if you don't realize it is inside the dumpling. The menu doesn't mention this juicy burst so I'm sure plenty of first timers didn't know of this fact until biting into one of the dumplings. They don't resemble traditional soup dumplings so you likely wouldn't expect the juicy burst, but once you know, you'll love it! Just be more careful on your initial bite into the dumpling.

Their menu also offers a small amount of Barbecue Skewers and Appetizers, from Lamb Kebab to Chicken Hearts, from Spicy Kimchi to Red Oil Pig Ears. We ordered a plate of Shredded Kelp in Sauce ($5.00), which is a little like a very al dente pasta, with a taste of the sea.

The Lamb & Coriander Dumplings ($9.99) were excellent, with a thin dumpling skin, plenty of savory lamb and a burst of liquid umami. You can see how plump they were, and each was spiced well, making it easy to finish off the dozen.

The Pork & Mushroom Dumplings ($8.99) weren't as aesthetically pleasing as the lamb ones but they were equally as tasty, with the liquid umami enhanced by the natural umami of the mushrooms. It would have been easy to keep ordering more dumplings until we were ready to burst but we wanted to leave some room for eating at other spots.

If you are in Chicago, I highly recommend you check out QXY Dumplings. 

After lunch, we wandered around Chinatown, just checking out the various other restaurants, bakeries and shops. At one point, we stopped at the Saint Anna Bakery & Cafe and decided to get a couple of pork buns. However, we spied the above sign. Pork Belly Cookies??!! How could we resist, especially when one of the bakery staff raved about them. We bought one of the plastic containers of cookies and weren't disappointed.

It isn't easy to describe these cookies. The cookie itself is a little flaky with a bit of a sweet glaze, and they definitely have pieces of crunchy pork belly and fat within them. And the rich taste of the pork belly is more than evident, an intriguing blend of sweet and salty, both savory and dessert. This shouldn't be that surprising of a dessert considering that there are numerous desserts that add bacon. Plus, the combination of sweet and salty is a killer mix. Why doesn't a bakery in Boston's Chinatown make this type of cookie?

Rant: Planning Ahead & Being Spontaneous

If you're traveling to another city, do you plan ahead, researching the restaurants, bars, wine shops, bakeries, and other such places that you want to visit? Or do you prefer to be spontaneous and simply wander around, hoping to find places of interest? I know travelers on both sides of this issue though my own position is closer to a middle ground, trying to avoid the disadvantages of each choice while gaining the benefits of both.

For example, last week I traveled to Chicago, for the first time in over twenty years, for a couple of days with a very good friend. As it was a short trip, I knew we needed to pack as much as possible into our brief time. For me, that entailed researching Chicago, learning the names of some of the most interesting restaurants, bars, and such. With that information, I had a solid foundation for the exploration of Chicago, having located places which appealed to our interests and preferences. Chicago is a very big city so we would never have just stumbled upon all of those places on our own.

We had lots of luck with the places I researched and then visited, from QXY Dumplings, a killer soup dumpling spot, to Motomaro, an amazing Japanese restaurant. And with my preplanning, we were able to set up a restaurant crawl for one evening, dining at three restaurants for dinner, each place about a block or so away from each other. Simply wandering around might not have led us to these three restaurants.

However, some spontaneity and flexibility was warranted as well. We didn't preplan every minute we'd be in Chicago, leaving open time to explore the city. After enjoying a delightful lunch at QXY Dumplings, we wandered around Chinatown and stumbled upon a bakery that sold Pork Belly Cookies! I never saw anything in my researches about those cookies in Chicago. Later, we stopped at a wine & spirits store and received a recommendation to check out a nearby wine bar & restaurant, Income Tax, which turned out to be a very cool spot. And at Income Tax, we received another excellent recommendation, to Estereo, a great bar with plenty of Pisco, Mezcal, Cachaca, Tequila and other similar spirits.

If we had been rigid in our plans, we never would have encountered those spots. And only a balanced approach, of both prior research & planning, mixed with some spontaneity, would have led to the best results. I spoke to someone else who was visiting Chicago at the same time as us, and they were amazed at all the places we had visited, places she knew nothing about. Her own experiences, which seemed based almost entirely on spontaneity without any preplanning, weren't as successful.


We had an amazing time in Chicago, filling both days with lots of incredible food and drink. In the near future, I will be writing much more detail about my travels to Chicago. If you travel, I highly recommend you do your research first, and then ensure you allow time to be spontaneous, to wander around seeing what you might find.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Slated to open late next month, Bodega Canal will bring elevated Mexican fare and flare to the TD Garden neighborhood. Owner of North End gastropub Ward 8 and newcomer North Square Oyster, Nicholas Frattaroli aims to elevate Mexican dining with the “rustic luxe” concept. Bodega Canal will offer an alternative to the sports bar-heavy neighborhood with a fresh, lively destination for guests to enjoy a delicious meal, pre- or post-game drink, or fun night out on the town.

Helmed by Chef Kenny Schweizer, who also oversees the kitchen at Frattaroli’s Ward 8., Bodega Canal’s menu will offer a variety of house-made guacamoles, appetizers, tortas, salads, entrées, and, of course, plenty of classic and reimagined tacos. Menu highlights will include: Mole Short Rib with dirty rice and roasted green beans; Buttered Lobster Tacos with butter-poached lobster, grilled corn pico de gallo, cojita; and ancho crema, and Queso Fundido with chorizo and poblano rajas.

Ward 8’s General Manager Mike Wyatt will oversee the bar program as beverage manager to develop a creative, carefully curated cocktail, beer, and wine menu. With a full liquor license, Bodega Canal will serve up a wide variety of options including: a variety of margaritas; three frozen drink options; red, white, and rosé sangria; signature cocktails; shareable drinks; South American and Spanish wines; Mexican soft drinks; Mexican coffees; and domestic and foreign beers available by draft or the bottle.

“Always having loved Mexico’s cuisine and its rich culture, our team is excited to open a space that celebrates the vibrancy and boldness of Mexican flavors and dishes. In an area brimming with sports bars, we’re looking forward to bringing a fresh, new, sophisticated concept to Canal Street. We felt there was a need for a really great quality restaurant and bar that offers guests a fun atmosphere as well as elevated food and drink; we hope Bodega Canal meets that need!" says Frattaroli.

Located at 57 Canal St., Boston, MA, Bodega Canal will be open daily. The bar will be open Sunday through Wednesday from 11:30 to 1 a.m., and Thursday through Saturday from 11:30 to 2 a.m. Lunch will be served daily from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner will be served Sunday through Thursday from 5 to 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5 to 11 p.m. Weekend brunch service will begin at a later date. For more information, please visit www.bodegacanal.com

2) Every Tuesday, from 11am-6pm, Temazcal Tequila Cantina in Lynnfield will celebrate Taco Tuesday. They will offer handcrafted tacos for ½ off, for lunch or early dinner and drinks. Choose from any of Temazcal’s tacos, served with Mexican rice and black beans, including: grilled vegetable tacos, grilled chicken tacos, fish tacos, lettuce wrap Ahi Tuna tacos, lettuce wrap grilled salmon tacos, Asada skirt steak tacos, or tacos mechados (braised short ribs).

3) Executive Chef Matt Drummond, Bar Manager Kaitlyn Fischer, and the crew at Loco Taqueria & Oyster Bar welcome autumn with a special fall Columbus Day edition of brunch on Monday, October 9, from 10am-3pm.

Executive Chef Matt Drummond will be dishing out Loco’s signature brunch items like Avocado Toast (marble rye, aji Amarillo goat cheese, smoked mahi mahi, avocado), the decadent PB&J French Toast (peanut butter & berry jam stuffed, banana foster sauce, spiced peanuts), savory Cubano (carnitas, tasso ham, queso, house pickles, special sauce) and other fall-inspired specials.

Those looking for a liquid brunch can keep the weekend going with signature cocktails from Bar Manager Kaitlyn Fischer, including the cult-favorite Coco Margarita and a variety of other seasonal sippers.

4) On Thursday, October 12, from 7pm-9pm, Tavolo Ristorante will host a Mushroom Dinner Extravaganza. Chef Eric will present each course and Dunk, from Dunks Mushroom Products & Foraging LLC, will also join in to showcase a selection of mushrooms and products that he cultivates locally, and that we take pride in cooking.

The Menu:
1st Course: Wild Mushroom Bruschetta - black stainer foccacia, Langwater Farm garlic, local quail eggs, italian black truffles
2nd Course: Lacto Salad - mixed mushroom conserva, lacto green beans, Judy's greens, housemade black garlic, mushroom jerky
3rd Course: Beef Tartar - king of the woods crown, farm shallots, herbs, dandilion mustard
4th Course: Chitarra Ramen - serrano chili, chitarra, wild sassafras and umami broth, jenny's duck eggs, shroom accutrements
5th Course: Chaga Panna Cotta - matsutake, maple gummies, vanilla and pine froth

With complimentary amuse bouche and tea course! Menu subject to change. Vegetarian option available.

Cost: $50 per person. Drink pairings for an additional $30.
Limited spots available so get your tickets now at Eventbrite.

5) Culinary creativity is nothing new for Chef Leo Asaro who has been Chef de Cuisine at Michael Schlow’s Latin-inspired eatery Tico since 2014.

This Fall, Asaro’s bringing something new to Tico's table with “Leo’s Lab” - an interactive dining experience where guests get a front row seat for the appetizing action of Asaro’s artistry at Tico's intimate chef counter. From cocktail concoctions to delectable dishes, “Leo’s Lab” is a culinary journey through bites, sips and anecdotes and an unmatched celebration of sensory stimulation.

"Leo’s Lab" will be in business on select Tuesday and Wednesday evenings with one 6:30 pm seating for up to 8 guests. Tickets are $75 per person (not including taxes or gratuity), and include a welcome sip of champagne, one cocktail creation, five savory courses and a dessert finale served with a side of friendly banter with fellow guests and a culinary discussion throughout the meal with Asaro himself.

This series kicked off on October 3rd and upcoming dates include:
Tuesday, October 3
Wednesday, October 18
Wednesday, November 8
Tuesday, November 28
Tuesday, December 5
Tuesday, December 19

Asaro has spent over a decade mastering his culinary craft and coming up with fun, new ways to engage diners. The Johnson and Wales graduate studied under Chef Daniel Boulud before finding a home in Schlow’s restaurant group. Impressed with his skills and ability to design beautiful dishes, Schlow brought Asaro up the ranks from Sous Chef of his renowned restaurant Radius, to Executive Chef of beloved Via Matta, and eventually to his current post at Tico in the Back Bay.

For tickets and more information on Leo’s Lab, visit http://www.ticoboston.com/leo-s-lab.

6) You may already be aware of the famed Craigie Burger – but did you know that you can enjoy it this Friday for lunch at Craigie On Main? You can also pair it with a beer from Exhibit A Brewing. Tony Maws started this once a month Craigie Burger & Beer event in the summer with Notch Brewing, and cooked for sold-out crowds. So this fall he is welcoming Exhibit A Brewery to Cambridge on October 6, November 3 and December 8. Mark your calendars now, these lunch events sell out!

Date: Friday, October 6
Time: 11:30am – 2:00pm
Price: $18.00 / Craigie Burger. Your choice of beverage is not included in the $18
To make Reservations, go to this : Eventbrite Link:

https://www.eventbrite.com/e/burger-lunch-at-craigie-on-main-with-exhibit-a-tickets-38202200811

Compass Box: Blending Whisky Like An Italian Chef

How do you blend Whisky like an Italian chef? That might seem to be an odd comparison but once you understand it, you'll embrace the concept.

Compass Box Whisky, established in 2000, produces and bottles a wide range of blended Scotch whiskies. At a recent tasting class at Redstone Liquors, two representatives of Compass Box Whisky led us through a tasting of 6 whiskies, explaining about the company and its philosophy. The representatives included Scott Ellis, the U.S. Western Regional Manager, and Kerrin Egalka, the U.S. Northeast Regional Manager. It was a fun, educational and tasty event, presenting a compelling comparison tasting, topped off by one of their high-end, limited edition offerings.

Compass Box was founded by an American, John Glaser, who once worked for Johnnie Walker. Glaser felt that too many Scotch companies were operating in the same way and he wanted to do something different, choosing to reach into the past and emulate some of the old whisky blending houses. Compass Box remains a small company, with only about 15 employees, and purchases high-quality distillates from numerous Scotch distilleries, blending the distillates as well as sometimes aging them further.

The company has five core beliefs which guide their operations and production. First, "Blending is a platform for creativity. A well-made Scotch whisky blend, made from excellent component whiskies, is something no single distillery can create, and can rival the complexity of the very best of single malt whiskies." Scott Ellis stated that their blending is conducted as if they were an Italian chef, meaning that they use only a small amount of high-quality ingredients, blending them carefully so that you can detect each component in the whole. Compass Box commonly blends only 2-4 high-end whiskies rather than dozens of different ones, so you can discern the individual characteristics of each specific whisky.

I've long said that blending is an art form, and that blenders, in both the wine and spirits worlds, don't receive as much attention or kudos as they deserve. It is also compelling to see the efforts of Compass Box as akin to an Italian chef. If you've been to Italy, you know that many of their best dishes are simply prepared, using the highest quality ingredients, and such dishes can taste amazing. This whisky blending isn't like the preparation of many stews and soups, where a large assortment of ingredients are added, and often using just what is available, even if it isn't high quality. Give me simplicity and high quality any time.

Second, "Good oak rules. Up to 70% of the flavour in mature Scotch whisky comes from the interaction of the spirit with the cask it is aged in. You can only create a great whisky when you use great wood." The barrel is twice as important as the base spirit, and is truly the "unsung hero" of the production process. That again is something I have written about before, emphasizing the integral nature of barrels. Compass Box takes great care to purchase only the best barrels, to ensure their final product is excellent. It is also why they have chosen to undergo a second maturation, a finish barrel, for some of their whisky.

Third, "Good whiskies don’t need age statements. We believe whisky quality is determined by flavour and character, not by an age statement. There is no short-hand for quality in Scotch. Age statements can be a red herring." Some people certainly fall into the assumption that older Scotch is better, but that certainly is not the case. The taste of the Scotch should be the definitive factor, not merely its age.

Fourth, "Whisky should be bottled without chill-filtering and at its natural colour. Unlike most Scotch whisky producers, we see no reason to artificially colour our whiskies, or to strip away mouthfeel by chill-filtration. These are cosmetic steps we never take." This is a position I've started to see more and more with some of the smaller whisky producers, trying to maintain the natural nature of the whisky, without doing anything to its color or mouthfeel.

Fifth, "Drink good whisky any way you like. No rules. Good whisky can be enjoyed neat, with water, ice, mixers, in a culinary cocktail or paired with foods. There are no rules. Simply share and enjoy." This is another issue I fully agree with, and have written as much previously. Simply enjoy whisky as you life as we all have our personal preferences. Don't let someone else tell you how you must enjoy your Scotch.

Compass Box makes three different types of blends, Blended Scotch Whisky, Blended Malt, and Blended Grain, and their portfolio is basically broken down into the Signature Range, Great King Street, and Limited Editions. The Great King series was inspired by recipes from 19th century distillers, and includes two whiskies, the Artist's Blend and Glasgow Blend. It was the Artists Blend which was the focal point of our tasting, the control for our experimental tasting.

The Artists's Blend is the base whisky for their new Marrying Cask program the pilot which launched last year in Massachusetts. Using the Artists' Blend, they did a second maturation, a marrying of sorts, in four different types of barrels. One whisky with five different expressions. Only three barrels of these casks were imported into the U.S. and Massachusetts is the only state which received all four marrying casks. Other states only received one or two different types, so we were very lucky to have the opportunity to sample all four.

The base Artist's Blend is a blend of 46% Lowland Single Grain Whisky, 29% Northern Highland Single Malt, 17% of a different Northern Highland Single Malt, and 8% Speyside Single Malt. It was also matured in 75% First Fill American Oak barrels, 17% New French Oak, and 8% First Fill Sherry Butt. (Note: The "Sherry" butts come from Bodegas José y Miguel Martin, located in Huelva, which is actually located outside the legal Sherry region. As such, their products are not technically Sherry.)

The Artist's blend is bottled at 43% ABV and uses about 50% malt whisky, which is higher than the 30% that many other blends use. Grain whisky is inexpensive so the large producers tend to use more grain than malt, which also diminishes the character of the whisky which comes more from the malt. I found the Artists's Blend to be a pleasing blend of fruit, spice and a touch of smoke, more apple pie and fall spices with hints of vanilla and cinnamon. Easy drinking and it would do well on its own or in a cocktail.

We then proceeded to taste the four different Marrying Casks ($49.99/bottle), each which uses the Artist's Blend and simply ages it for a second maturation in a different type of barrel. Despite the fact that each uses the same whisky, they are distinctively different, the second maturation, about 6-12 months, bringing out a significant change in the flavor profile of the whisky. It was a fascinating comparison tasting, and all of the attendees had their own personal favorite.

The first marrying cask involved a barrel which previously stored Lowland Grain Whisky. This created a lighter style whisky, more elegant and delicate, with a lightly sweet taste and vanilla accents.

The next marrying cask used barrels which had previously aged Highland Malt Whisky. This whisky had a strong, fruity nose with lots of berries and tropical fruit on the palate. There were vanilla accents and subtle spice notes but this whisky was all about the fruit. Quite delicious!

The third marrying cask used "Sherry" butts which previously had aged Highland Malt whisky.  This whisky though did evidence some typical Sherry aromatics, as well as some saline notes on the palate. There were some red fruit notes as well, a mild sweet tang, and a lengthy finish. Very tasty.

The final marrying cask was conducted in a barrel previously used to age the Oak Cross Malt blend, a type of hybrid barrel with both French and American oak. This whisky had a fruity aroma but on the palate, it was more spice and cream, with subtle hints of berries and vanilla. It wasn't as fruity as the second marrying cask but delicious in its own way

Overall, all four marrying casks were compelling for their unique flavor profiles and which will appeal to you depends on your own personal preferences. The second marrying cask might have squeaked out as my personal favorite, but it probably would depend on my mood on any specific day.

Finally, we tasted one of their limited edition, higher-end whiskies, the Double Single ($152-$175). The concept of this whisky was to "find complexity within simplicity." As such, it is a blend of only two whiskies, 72% Glen Elgin Single Malt (aged in re-charred hogshead bourbon barrels) and 28% Girvan Single Grain (aged in re-charred bourbon barrels). This is the third time this whisky, with a 46% ABV, has been released, and only about 5800 bottles were produced and bottled in March 2017.

The Double Single was superb, a silky smooth, complex and well-balanced whisky with a fascinating melange of flavors. There were hints of vanilla and caramel, berries and tropical fruit, herbs and spices. Each sip seemed to bring something new to my palate. Ellis mentioned it reminded him of Werther's Original candies and I could see the connection. This is definitely a whisky that probably is best served on its own and not mixed in a cocktail, where it may lose some of its complexity. If you want a superb whisky, then you won't go wrong buying a bottle of the Double Single.

Overall, Compass Box Whisky is producing plenty of delicious and intriguing blended whiskies. The company has an excellent philosophy and I love the idea of them equating their blending to that of an Italian chef. With a range of price points, you should be able to find something from their portfolio that appeals to your preference and wallet/pocket book.

Sohomare Tokubetsu Kimoto Sake: A Little Bit Of Heart & Soul

"Oh, won't you stay and try to:
Give a little bit of heart and soul.
Give a little bit of love to grow.
Give a little bit of heart and soul,
And don't you make me beg for love."
--T'Pau

For World Sake Day, on October 1, I chose to open a new bottle to me, the Sohomare Tokubetsu Kimoto "Heart and Soul" Junmai Sake ($29.99), which I previously purchased at Astor Wine & Spirits. It turned out to be an excellent choice, a perfect way to celebrate the holiday.

The Sohomare Brewery is a small, family-owned Sake kura which was founded by the Jono family in 1872 in the Tochigi Prefecture. Tochigi is located in the northern Kanto region and is surrounded by a continuous mountain range to the east, north and west. The brewery is well known for its use of the highest quality Yamadanishiki rice as well as its use of the traditional Kimoto method of production. This Sake isn't an exception.

The Sohomare Tokubetsu Kimoto Junmai is made from the the highest quality Designation A Yamadanishiki rice, harvested from the Yokawa and Tojo regions of Hyogo Prefecture. The rice has been polished down to 60%, which would normally qualify it as a Ginjo but they do not label this Sake as such. It is a Tokubetsu though, which means it is special in some way, and its higher polishing rate is likely the reason for that designation.

It is also brewed using the Kimoto method, which entails creating a yeast starter in a waist-high tank and then mixing it with large oar-like poles, a lengthy and laborious process. Natural lactic acid will fall into the tank, though more modern methods simply add commercially created lactic acid. Using natural lactic acid takes longer and it is riskier. The brewery states it takes about 15-18 days longer for them to create Sake with the Kimoto method. Kimoto Sake can be more rich and complex, and sometimes also has a gamier/earthy taste.

As it is a Kimoto, its acidity is also high, at 1.8, and its Sake Meter Value is +5, meaning it tends to be a bit dry. As a Junmai, it is made from only four ingredients, including rice, water, yeast and koji-kin. This was a compelling Sake, a mellow and smooth-drinking Sake with lots of acidity and delicious umami. It has a richness to the mouthfeel, a lengthy and satisfying finish, and is something I could sit and drink all day. There is a mild earthiness to the Sake which enhances the totality. A well-made and delicious Sake, it gets my highest recommendation, especially considering its very reasonable price point.

This would be an excellent pairing with umami dishes, especially mushroom or truffle-based ones, and would also go well with various meats. I enjoyed the Sake with a couple pulled pork sandwiches, the slightly spicy sauce working well with the Sake. This would also work well with oysters and fried clams. Kanpai!

Rant: Don't Forget Those Less Fortunate

Now that October has begun, you're probably already looking forward and thinking about the upcoming holidays, starting to make preliminary plans for the fine foods & drinks that you will enjoy and share with family and friends. You might be perusing cookbooks or websites to locate decadent recipes to thrill your guests. You might be planning which expensive wine to uncork for your special friends. You might be pondering which pricey gifts to purchase for your family and friends. It can be a time of gluttony and excess, of greed and hedonism.

However, stop and ponder another significant thought: Don't forget those less fortunate. Let us work together to help those who need some assistance, even if it requires a little sacrifice on our part. Make this a meaningful holiday season, rather than a selfish one.

Though many of us love and enjoy the holiday season, it can be a very sad and disappointing time for those with little or nothing. Every community has some people who find it difficult merely to pay for basic essentials, let alone to buy holiday gifts or prepare a special holiday feast. We can help though, and try to bring some joy to the less fortunate. Share your largess with others, helping those who truly need it.

This year has also been especially devastating for many people due to terrible weather and calamities, from hurricanes to earthquakes, from Puerto Rice to Mexico, Texas to the Virgin Islands. Some of the affected lack even basic food and water and desperately need assistance. They aren't looking forward to the holidays but rather are living day to day, hoping for the basic essentials. They need our help right now.

Even though these are tough economic times for many of us, we all probably can help out others, even if only in little ways. If you cannot spare money, then donate your time, maybe spending it at a food bank or shelter. Or make something to give to others, such as baking a pie, cookies or casserole. Donate old clothes or other durable items which you no longer use. There are many different ways to help out others besides just monetary donations.

During this season, there will be numerous restaurants, chefs, shops and others which will hold special charitable events. Talk about these events, promote them on social media, and spread the word far and wide. Attend those events, encouraging others to do the same. Give to your favorite charities, whatever they might be. I want to hear about your charitable efforts to help those less fortunate. Be creative in your efforts, even if your own finances are tight. That would be the best gift I could receive from my readers, the knowledge that you have all helped out those less fortunate.

I will do my own part to help the less fortunate, to share what I possess. Year round, I promote numerous food and wine-related charitable events and probably will promote even more this season. I will give to several charities as well, even if I only can give small amounts, to those which are personally close to my heart. I will try to help in a number of different ways and I strongly encourage all of my fellow bloggers to do the same this season.


Let us share with all during this upcoming holiday season.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) National Taco Day is October 4 and to celebrate, Margaritas Mexican Restaurants restaurants will once again offer the Taco Gigante Challenge throughout the month of October. The Taco Gigante ($12.99) is a mammoth, 12-inch, 2 pound Taco filled to the brim with lettuce, refried beans, rice, ground beef, chicken, carnitas, cheese, salsa fresca, bacon, queso, hacienda sauce, picante sauce, crema and pickled jalapeños.

Throughout October, if you can finish the entire 2-pound Taco Gigante you will get a spot up on Margaritas Wall of Fame and bragging rights. In addition, on National Taco Day itself, guests who order the Taco Gigante receive a voucher for one Taco Gigante to either conquer the Taco Gigante Challenge for a second time or dare a friend to take on the challenge at their next visit.

These specials will take place in Margaritas Mexican Restaurants in Lexington, Medford, Revere and Waltham.

2) il Molo, located alongside the Boston waterfront in the North End, is serving up $1 oysters on the half shell from 4PM to 6PM, Monday through Fridays. il Molo’s Executive Chef Pino Maffeo focuses on offering the freshest seafood in the city and something on the menu for everyone; oyster offerings include both sweet, crisp oysters from the east as well as plump, subtle oysters from the west, paired with made-in-house mignonette and cocktail sauce. . With this new dining deal, il Molo’s premium quality half shells are available for oyster-lovers on a budget; so, shuck and slurp your heart out without breaking the bank.

3) The SRV team and guest chef Cassie Piuma of Sarma invite guests to join them for complimentary cicchetti party on Wednesday, October 11, from 9pm-11pm. SRV will be hosting its first-ever cicchetti takeover with guest chef Cassie Piuma and guests will be treated to complimentary cicchetti (or Italian small bites) in SRV’s bar and bacaro area.

Reservations are not required. Featured cicchetti will not be available in main dining room. For more information, please contact (617) 536-9500.

4) On Tuesday, October 24th, at 6pm, A&B Burgers will present a four course, Marchesi Antinori Wine Dinner. Antinori Brand Ambassador, Marco Deary, will showcase his top labels alongside Chef Matthew DiBiccari's Italian cuisine. Matt came to A&B from Michael Schlow's Italian restaurant, Altastrada. Chef Matt will transform A&B's kitchen for one night only, into an authentic Tuscan kitchen.

The Menu is as follows:
First Course
Porchetta (Watercress fennel salad, truffle, lemon, shaved Grana Padano)
Wine Pairing
2016 Antinori, Bramito, Chardonnay, Umbria
Second Course
Hand cut Pappardelle with Rabbit (Pancetta, rosemary)
Wine Pairing
2015 Antinori, Guado al Tasso, Il Bruciato, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, & Syrah, Bolgheri
Third Course
Braised Beef Short Ribs (Tomato, fennel, creamy polenta)
Wine Pairing
2014 Antinori, Tignanello IGT, Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Tuscany, Italy
Fourth Course
Ice cream with Biscotti (Almond, apricot, honey)
2010 Antinori, Santa Cristina Vin Santo della Trebbiano and Malvasia

Cost: $95/per person (which includes tax & 18% gratuity)
Tickets must be purchased on Eventbrite
This event is 21+. IDs will be checked at door

Additional beer, wine, soda, and food is available for purchase at the restaurant

Switchel: A Colonial Drink From Russell Orchards

While perusing the shelves at Russell Orchards, after picking up some of their excellent cider donuts, I noticed some plastic containers, next to the cider, which were labeled "Switchel." I wasn't familiar with the term and the drink seemed to be a mix of vinegar, cider and ginger. I bought a couple bottles to try at home and was later fascinated when I did some research on Switchel, which is becoming popular once again.

Switchel may be known by a number of other terms, including ginger-water, haymaker's punch, switchy, switzel, and swizzle. It is commonly a drink of water, vinegar (or cider vinegar), ginger, and a sweetener, which was originally molasses but nowadays may use honey, sugar, brown sugar or maple syrup. Other ingredients were also sometimes added, dependent on the location, including lemon juice and oatmeal.

The exact origins of switchel are unknown, though some sources allege it originated in the Caribbean, yet there doesn't appear to be much supporting evidence in favor of that theory. The main ingredients, ginger and molasses, do come from the Caribbean, but from different parts of that region and generally didn't come together. However, once those ingredients were exported to Colonial America, it seems they finally were combined together. If anything, the basic concept of combining fruit juices, spices, and other ingredients, to make punches and other drinks might have originated in the Caribbean but switchel itself appears to be more an American invention.

It is thought switchel started becoming popular in New England during the 17th century. It spread throughout the country, eventually becoming a favorite of hot and thirsty farmers, including some during hay harvest time, leading to it becoming known as haymaker's punch. Switchel was mentioned by a number of popular writers, from Herman Melville to Laura Ingalls Wilder. One of the earliest written mentions of switchel is in a poem from 1789. It is also said that in early 19th century Massachusetts, students at Harvard University loved to drink switchel and rum, though temperance advocates thought switchel on its own was a good substitute for an alcoholic drink. Combining switchel with alcohol, especially rum, seemed to be popular in many places, and not just Harvard.

The Switchel from Russell Orchards costs $3.95 for a 12 ounce plastic bottle, and is made with apple cider vinegar, apple cider, maple syrup, ginger and water, with the vinegar and cider made on their premises. It is unpasteurized so needs to be refrigerated and does have a sell by date. There is a distinctive ginger aroma from the switchel and on the palate, it is dry with a prominent vinegar aspect, subtle apple notes, and a ginger backbone. It is refreshing and I see how it can be quite refreshing on a hot day. It would also work well as a cocktail ingredient, and I'll be trying that very soon.

Next time you visit Russell Orchards for their superb cider donuts, why not pick up some Switchel too.

Paella Showdown: Schlesinger vs Bissonnette

Kramer: Have you ever had really good paella?
Morty: Not really.
Kramer: Oh, it's an orgiastic feast for the senses."
--Seinfeld episode "The Raincoats"

Last night, famed local chefs Chris Schlesinger and Jamie Bissonnette faced off against each other in a pugilistic cook-off to see which chef could create the Best Paella. This culinary competition took place in front of a packed crowd at The Automatic, and I attended as a media guest. All of the attendees were able to vote for their favorite Paella and the winner was.....

Well, I'll hold off on that announcement until later in this post.

Chris Schlesinger is a James Beard award-winning chef, the founder of East Coast Grill and the author of several books. Most recently, he opened The Automatic with his friend, legendary bartender Dave Cagle. Chris's Paella recipe has become famous, even featured in The New York Times. Jamie Bissonnette, of Little Donkey, Toro, and Coppa, is also a James Beard award-winning chef and can brag about his Paella too. He headlined this year’s Food &Wine Classic in Aspen, showcasing his Paella to the massive crowds. Two culinary powerhouses, creating their own spin on a classic Spanish dish.

Paella is a Spanish rice dish that likely originated in the region of Valencia, on the eastern coast of Spain, during the 19th century but its roots extend back over 1000 years. Over 1200 years ago, the Moors introduced rice to Valencia, which would subsequently become one of the most important rice-producing areas in all of Spain. The exact origins of paella are a bit murky and there are numerous origin stories, some which appear to have been created mainly to make a fascinating story.

For example, one story suggests that Moorish servants created paella-like rice dishes for their families using leftovers from royal banquets. Thus, it has been claimed that "paella" derives from the Arabic word "baqiyah," which means "leftovers." Another more fanciful tale states paella was created by a man for his lover, and that "paella" is a corruption of the phrase "para ella," meaning "for her." It seems more likely that the word "paella" derives from the Latin word "patella," which means "pan."

The term "paella," which is commonly used to refer to the food, actually refers to the "cooking pan" and not the rice dish itself, making the Latin origin apt. The dish is more properly referred to as "arroz a la paella" though most everyone nowadays just refers to the dish as paella. Interestingly, the term "arroz," which means "rice," is derived from Arabic, which makes sense as the Moors introduced rice to the region.

"Valencians have the confident belief, to me it seems well-founded, that nobody knows how to cook rice better than them."
---Francisco de Paula Martí (1818)

We know that during the 19th century, field and farm workers commonly prepared paella, using rice and whatever else was readily available, and cooking it over a wood fire. The first known written recipe for paella appeared in 1840. The first paellas, even in Valencia, didn't contain seafood, and might have instead snails, chicken, rabbit or duck, plus vegetables like green beans, tomatoes and onions. Over time, as seafood was common in the region, it began to be added to some paella dishes.    Today, there are many, many different varieties of paella.

The traditional paella pan is large, round and flat, with a relatively short height, allowing the rice to have maximum contact with the bottom of the pan. The expensive spice saffron has also become an important ingredient for paella. A number of different rice types may be used, including Bahía, Senia, Leda, Balilla, and Bomba, with the common element being that these rice types can absorb plenty of liquid and flavor. Bomba seems to be the top choice of many Spanish chefs. And please note that March 27 is considered National Paella Day.

Which wine should you pair with Paella? It will depend in part on what type of paella you are enjoying, whether it has more seafood or other types of meat. I would begin by suggesting you drink Spanish wine, though obviously plenty of wines from other regions would work well too. Sticking with Spanish wine, my top choice would be Sherry, especially a Fino or Manzanilla if the paella has seafood. If the paella is more meat heavy, then I'd suggest an Amontillado or Oloroso Sherry. A dry Spanish Rosé would also work well with most Paella. I'd even recommend Cava, a Spanish sparkling wine. With seafood-heavy paella, white wines, like Albarino and Godello, would be nice choices, and for meat-heavy paella, red wines like Mencia, Rioja, and Garnacha would work nicely.

About ninety people attended the Paella Showdown, with some people, including myself, sitting outside and the weather cooperated, a fine evening for sitting on the patio. As we enjoyed some wine, servers came by with appetizers, including Patatas Bravas, Datiles con Jamon, Tortilla Espanola, and Pintxo de Gambas. All of them were tasty, especially the Datiles con Jamon, dates with blue cheese, wrapped in Serrano ham. I was drinking an excellent Sherry, the Alexander Jules Fino 22/85, which was a superb pairing with the appetizers as well as later with the paella.

This is Chris' paella pan and it's obviously well-used.

On the other hand, Jamie's paella pan seems much newer. Will this affect the competition?

Jamie began cooking his paella first and the following are a number of pictures showing his progress.

While the paella cooked, incredibly alluring aromas wafted through the air, making us eager to taste the paella.

As you aren't supposed to stir the rice in the paella, Jamie is turning the large pan about a quarter turn, which will help mix everything.

Jamie added mussels to his paella.

And this is the finished paella, which looks beautiful!

Chris started his paella after Jamie was about half done with his paella.

Adding rice to the paella.

Chris dug these local clams himself.

The final product, which looks somewhat different from Jaime's paella, is also beautiful and enticing. Both paellas looked like what I've previously enjoyed in Spain.

We all got a plate of each paella and this is from Jaime's pan. It possessed a great depth of flavor, a nice balance of tastes and textures. Great paella possesses socarrat, which is the caramelized and crusty rice at the bottom of the pan. Some of that crunch existed in Jaime's paella and I was sure to empty my plate. Absolutely delicious.

The paella from Chris had larger pieces of pork and shrimp, and a greater amount of socarrat. It too presented with an excellent depth of flavor and a nice balance. Again, this paella was absolutely delicious, and it certainly was near impossible to decide which paella was better. Though they shared some common characteristics, each also had their own unique taste. Both dishes would please any paella lover.

The vote was taken and it was extremely close, with about 15 people abstaining from voting. In the end, with a 39-37 victory, the winner was Chef Jamie Bissonnette! With such close results, I think it is fair to say both chefs made stellar paella and well deserve kudos for their culinary skills. Paella is such a great dish and both chefs should be very proud of their efforts. This was an absolutely fun event and they may repeat it in the future. If so, I highly recommend you attend.