Craft
distilling is booming all across the country, and a significant number of these
new, small producers are creating some delicious and interesting spirits, from
whiskey to rum, gin to
brandy.
TasteCamp originated as a weekend-long
immersion into lesser known wine regions, having visited areas including Long
Island, the Finger Lakes, Quebec, Virginia, Niagara and Vermont. Over time, the
concept of TasteCamp has evolved, so that not only do we explore wine, but we
now also explore local beer, ciders, spirits, and food.
About
30 or so writers and wine industry people recently attended TasteCamp 2017,
which was held in
Maryland. Once again, we visited wineries, breweries
and distilleries, sampling much of what Maryland has to offer, and I found much
to enjoy. In downtown
Frederick, one of our visits was to
the McClintock Distilling Company, which only opened in December 2016. Despite
its youth, I was impressed with their concept, objectives, and existing
products. This is certainly a distillery with a bright future ahead of it.
In
December 2014, the city of Frederick amended their city code and permitted
small, craft distilleries to operate in the downtown area. Only a few
distilleries have so far opened in Frederick but you'll likely see more in the
near future.
Tyler
Hegamyer and
Braeden Bumpers, who both
graduated from
Elon University, had an interest in producing
spirits, and received some education and training in distillation
at
Cornell University and
the
American Distilling Institute.
On
the site of an old mechanic's garage, they chose to open
McClintock
Distilling Company, which includes a distillery and tasting room. The
distillery was named after
McClintock Young, a famous
inventor in the 19th century, who had over 100 patented inventions. With a
passion for innovation, he also owned one of the first foundries in Frederick.
And it is that passion for innovation which has inspired Tyler and Braeden.
The
distillery uses only 100%
certified
organic ingredients and hopes to soon
become a certified organic distillery. They currently use about 120 tons of
grain annually, acquiring whole kernel grains from Ohio, Indiana, Kentucky and
Ontario. Though they would like to use local grains, those grains still need to
be organic and Perdue farms purchases most of the grain in Maryland. Their long
term goal is to purchase as much local, organic grain as possible.
I
was fascinated to learn that McClintock grinds all of their own grains, using
a
stone burr mill which once was used by an old
bakery. They might be one of only two distilleries in the U.S. to use a stone
burr mill. Also known as grist mills, they are able to grind grains into a fine
flour which doesn't cause the grains to heat up, and also helps the flour
maintain the flavor. This makes their distillery more unique, and could lead to
a more flavorful end product. It also helps them keep quality control of every
aspect of the process.
The
milled grains pass directly into the
mash tanks, which
prevents oxidation. They have three fermenters, and the usual, full fermentation
takes two days, using a proprietary distillers yeast. As they are very concerned
with
sustainability, and wish to be
waste
neutral, they use a closed loop cooling system, which reuses the water that
chills the mash tanks. In addition, after fermentation, the spent grains are
sent to local farms as pig food. I'm sure those are very happy pigs.
McClintock's
stills, including a pot and column still, were created by
Kothe
Distilling, a renowned German company, and were made with lots of copper,
which benefits distillation. On the left side, you can see their 1000 liter
pot-column still.
Their
column still has an attached
Vapor Basket that
allows them to better produce their gin, as they place all of the botanicals in
the basket. This helps to better extract the flavors in those botanicals.
They
currently have three products for sale, a Vodka, Gin and White Whiskey, and have
been aging some of their spirits in 30 gallon barrels. They believe they will
age their spirits for about 1-1.5 years before they are released for sale. For
example, they have some used
Hennessy
Cognac barrels in which they are aging some of their gin. I had
the chance to taste two barrel-samples, and they definitely show potential. I am
very intrigued to see how they taste once the aging is complete.
The
Epiphany
Vodka ($28) is made from Northern Italian organic white wheat,
and was double distilled and triple filtered. It has a relatively smooth and
clean taste, with a hint of earthiness. Though you could probably drink this
chilled, on its own, it probably would be best in a cocktail. It was my least
favorite of their three products, but it is still a good vodka.
The
Forager
Gin ($36) is a vapor infused New-World style gin using
botanicals inspired by native herbs found in the Appalachian wilderness.
Here
is the list of botanicals used to produce this gin. Quite an interesting
combination. On the nose, there is a strong juniper aroma with subtle hints of
other botanicals in the background. On the palate, the botanical mix is more
balanced, and the complex melange of flavors delights the mouth. There are
elements of fruit, mainly citrus, and floral flavors, with a sprinkle of spice
elements. The gin should be served chilled, and would be delicious on its own,
or used in cocktails. I'm not a huge fan of gin, as I find too many overdo it
with the juniper flavors, but I really enjoyed the more balanced botanicals in
this Forager Gin. Highly recommended.
The
Maryland
Heritage White Whiskey ($34) is made from a blend of about 80%
Rye, with the rest being wheat and corn. It has a high rye content, intended to
reflect the historic ryes from pre-prohibition Western Maryland distilleries. In
addition, the whiskey was aged for about 24 hours in an oak barrel and is 84
proof. As a big Rye fan, this whiskey appealed to be, presenting with plenty of
tasty, spicy notes, with a hint of sweetness from the corn. In general, it was
smooth and easy-drinking, with only a touch of heat from the alcohol. This would
be a nice choice in a Manhattan of other whiskey-based cocktail. Also highly
recommended.
McClintock
Distilling is on the right path, with passionate owners, who are trying to be
sustainable, organic and produce quality spirits. Their initial products were
impressive and I see great potential here, including with their aged spirits. I
also feel they would be an excellent model for other craft distillers. If you
ever get to Maryland, seek out their spirits. And if you have an interest in
craft spirits, you should pay attention to what McClintock Distilling is
doing.
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